Hydrostadium teamed up with the City of Metz and FFCK (French Federation of Canoe Kayak and Paddle Sports) to build a prototype of a river wave at the La Pucelle dam. The wave was put in the river in only a few days, back in December 2019. The 5 meter wide prototype demonstrates the technical feasibility to build a fully fledged river wave at this location. Metz has enormous potential: The aim is to build a wave 10 meter wide and up to 1.3 m high, transforming city into one of the best river surf spots in European river.

Help spread the stoke for this project and transform Metz into a world class river surf spot by sharing their petition:

https://www.change.org/p/mairie-de-metz-cr%C3%A9er-une-vague-de-surf-naturelle-%C3%A0-metz

The post Metz Wave appeared first on Riverbreak.

Now to really keep it simple. I am sharing with you the simplest truths, hints, diagrams, instructions, metaphors, analogies and other cool things so you can easily build quality waves. So whether you have the ability to built out a fully realised “multiple concentric donuts” FOL or you build out a fractal version for a creek on your property.

This here is really basic. At the end of the article, I will share these words again. “Rollin” “Petal” Cardioid” “Mandelbrot” I hope at that point their symmetry is clear, allowing you to blueprint your FOL Fountain of Life Wave-Pool – the ultimate technology!

“It is not subjective, it’s not art, it’s not philosophy. This is as objective as it gets. This is physics. It either works or it doesn’t. Fluid dynamics give no fucks about egos, SAT scores, Ph.D.s, GEDs, B felonies, or Vidal Sasson. Fluid dynamics knows only one thing. Flow. God gave me that knowledge. How water flows. I can’t spell to save my life. Long division, WTF is that? And after three divorces I’m pretty sure you don’t want any marriage consultation from me. But when it comes to moving water into perfect waveforms. I understand the flow better than anyone on earth. The FOL is to wave pools what Tesla’s AC was to Eddison’s DC, it is that much further advanced beyond any current wave-pool tech.”  – EM

I was also well aware the FOL created a unique wave never seen before in artificial wave technology.

In this series, I will take the time to express the foundations for building perfect waves and the proper perspectives on these foundations in simple terms geared towards the layperson. The reason I’m doing this is that I am the layperson. Even though I have the most advanced wave-pool tech figured out, I didn’t figure it out with conventional methods and I don’t express it in a conventional manner. Whereas the first article was written from a deeply personal narrative with the hope the world might grasp the spiritual importance of this work, this article will allow everyone to easily grasp the simplicity of the physics of the FOL.

My work is unlike any tech currently on the market.

Basically, the way fluids move isn’t that hard to understand if you know what to look for and you know how you want the fluid to behave. Luckily for us, we are dealing with water, not plasma or other more difficult mediums to control.

“When Charles Chase from Lockheed Martin showed me illustrations of the compact fusion generator his team is working on in the Revolutionary Technologies Laboratory it confirmed my belief 100% that the FOL would work and that it was far superior to all other wave-pool technology.” – EM (Photo: Fusion generator, © Robert Mumgaard, CC-BY-SA-3.0)

I will offer some basic technical information that can assist anyone planning on or currently building river waves.

I hope you all enjoy the way I am about to express some basic technical things that have been overlooked or undervalued in the realm of artificial waves.

I will present the basic outline for building ecologically & economically sound surf spots far from the oceans

The key to getting these waves built properly in mass as quickly as possible is an open-source approach to artificial wave engineering.

I am open sourcing my superlative artificial wave technology to accelerate the process of creating world-class waves, in a vast array of configurations throughout the world’s non-costal regions.

I will present the basic outline for how we can bless the non-coastal areas of our majestic mother earth with world-class surf spots, literally millions of perfect waves of all shapes and sizes, all powered by gravity alone, reviving impoverished communities, creating thriving new communities, markets and industry, while salvaging our planets most dilapidated and dangerous civil engineering infrastructure.

FOL technology provides a ”unified wave-pool field theory” bridging the gap between standing wave & propagating wave technologies

Because of my unique perspective & approach to engineering artificial waves, which is rooted in quantum mechanics, my work is unlike any tech currently on the market, the FOL technology provides a “unified wave-pool field theory” and new mechanisms to create the world’s finest standing & propagating wave generation devices, consolidating these currently separate disciplines.

I have translated the universe’s most important non-physical wave function to the physical realm as the most advanced wave-pool technology on earth.

This quantum wave function is the foundation of Nicola Tesla’s unparalleled body of work, that has defined our modern society. So it shouldn’t be any surprise this same wave function is the key to the ultimate wave-pool.

“The day science begins to study non-physical phenomena, it will make more progress in one decade than in all the previous centuries of its existence.“ – Nikola Tesla (Photo: Candle holder, © Amir Tuchman, CC-BY-SA-4.0)

For me, fluid dynamics exist as tangible things in my mind that I can touch, that I can construct and deconstruct

At the age of 44, I was blessed with a rare disorder known as Acquired Savant Syndrome or A.S.S. for short. I find this ironic because I am a polarising individual in both the ocean and river surf communities, so I am sure some people will find this acronym apropos.

Acquired Savant Syndrome refers to cases in which savant-level skills emerge after a brain injury or disease in previously healthy individuals where no such prodigious skills were evident beforehand (Wisconsin Medical Society). There are roughly one hundred reported cases worldwide. Mine is the only reported case triggered by a traumatic emotional experience, which if you think about it could be classified as a brain injury, just not caused by physical damage.

My gift is spatial visualisation ability pertaining to the field of quantum mechanics, aka, the wave mechanical model, which I translate into the field of classical mechanics, expressed in fluid dynamics.

I will express the basic functions of the FOL in comparison to the wave-pool & standing wave technologies to illustrate it’s superiority

Like most savants, of any kind, I didn’t acquire this knowledge in a formal setting, I don’t understand it in a formal manner and I don’t express it in a formal fashion. And like must savants, I “feel” this knowledge. For me, fluid dynamics exist as tangible things in my mind that I can touch, that I can construct and deconstruct. They are as real to me as anything that I can reach out and grab with my hands.

Because of my rapid & unorthodox acquisition & comprehension of the highly technical sciences of fluid dynamics & quantum physics, combined with severe childhood dyslexia & ADHD, I lack the formal vocabulary & mathematical skills to express my work with the clarity I desire.

It’s been very difficult getting my peers to grasp the simplicity of this beautiful realm of fluid dynamics and how it relates to surfing.” – EM (Photo:  Hydraulic jumps)

Follow this link to understand this subject better: An experimental investigation of the stability of the circular hydraulic jump

Fluid dynamics do not exist on paper and the mathematics that engineers rely on to understand & express them are just artefacts of the living, tangible reality of the flow, the flow I feel

This is as much a blessing as it is a curse because the skills to calculate & communicate the science of fluid of dynamics are suited to individuals who use the right hemisphere of their brain, the male side, which moves indirect paths, straight lines. On the other side, the left hemisphere of the brain, the female side, moves in indirect paths, curved lines. Visualize the Fibonacci sequence, the blocks are the male path, the swirl is the female path. I am incredibly left hemisphere brain wired and this is why I feel the swirl but it’s also why I don’t communicate well in blocks and most engineers like neat orderly things that add up on paper. I like flowing orderly things that form perfect surf.

But fluid dynamics do not exist on paper and the mathematics that engineers rely on to understand & express fluid dynamics are just equations on paper, they are fossils, artifacts of the living, tangible reality in my head. So it’s a trade-off. I am content with the cards I’ve been dealt. I would much rather have the ability to feel the flow in an abnormal fashion than the ability to calculate the flow in the normal fashion.

Trying to explain fluid dynamics is difficult enough when you speak it’s mathematical language. Imagine the challenge of trying to translate how you “feel” a force inside your mind when you do not speak this language.

There are multitudes of wave generating devices that can be created from the core principles of the FOL

I have mapped out the basic blueprint, or what I like to call the sheet music for perfect surf and over the years I’ve picked up enough of the scientific terminology to explain the physics of the FOL so just about anyone can understand it. Luckily, because the FOL is derived from the primary universal wave function there are multitudes of wave generating devices that can be created from the core principles of the FOL, offering a multitude of ways to express the technology.

Let’s begin

1. I will sum up my work in three words. Circular Hydraulic Jump/Mandelbrot X. This is the key to the ultimate wave pool.
2. I will address the two basic problems in the majority standing wave technologies. I will illustrate how the FOL solves these problems.
3. I will address the problem in all wave-pool technologies. I will illustrate how the FOL does not suffer from this problem.
4. I will express the basic functions of the FOL in comparison to the wave-pool & standing wave technologies to illustrate it’s superiority.

Barreling River Wave Dec 2014 Colorado State University – “The level of wave progression that happened over that week at CSU was amazing. My guess is there has never been a week in wave design that had moved river surfing further into the future.” – Ben Nielsen

Ok, let’s sort out the two basic standing wave tech problems.

The first issue we are addressing is a force. It is critical to artificial wave engineering.

It is critical to the universe. In my Perfect Path article I state, “the FOL is born of the atom, not the sea”. That isn’t entirely true. Even before I started surfing in the ocean at age eight, my father was a dedicated ocean surfer, so it is without question that the ocean has had a massive influence on my wave design work. And to say the FOL isn’t born of the river would also be untrue, as I have spent almost 20yrs now riding river waves all across the world and my early wave design work was focused strictly on standing waves. But the symmetry is of the atom.

This force is what sparked my spatial visualisation ability, radically changing my life spiritually, opening my eyes to the sublime beauty of the quantum realm that defines my work and to the sublime beauty of life itself, the product of this non-material realm.

“Waves are universal. I just happened to connect the dots. From atoms to oceans to solar systems, there is a unified order to the flow.” – EM (Photo: Helio, ©NASA)

Even though this force is the foundation of my work and the backbone of the FOL, it wasn’t until I started to write the provisional patent that I realized the full scope of this force in the symmetry of the FOL tech and an unseen wave-type hiding right before my eyes in the FOL the entire time.

With each surge, the knowledge builds inside me and even when the feeling recedes the new broader understanding of the flow remains.

As I started sketching out the first drawings for my provisional patent in the fall of 2017, I was already aware the FOL offered the ideal way to create a perfect standing wave(hydraulic jump). I was also well aware the FOL offered the ideal way to create the perfect version of a unique wave never seen before in any prior or existing artificial wave technology. As I continued to draw out the first detailed diagram I realized there was this third wave-type hiding in plain sight and this wave was the best representation of this force.

“Look inside yourself to find the answers to forming perfect waves.” – EM

I instantly felt it’s waveform. The flow washed over me with the same intensity as the very first time I felt the “flow” back on 9-21-13 while watching the film Thrive. Since my initial exposure to the flow almost six years ago, the intensity of the “feeling” has ebbed & flowed many times.

Sound waves peel off perfectly all around us all the time.

The surges always correlate to the right action periods of my life. When I focus on being kind, compassionate, honest, diligent, hopeful, faithful, loving, when I meditate, pray, visualise, practice the law of attraction, when I abstain from drugs and alcohol, when I’m celibate, and when I spend a lot of time in the waves, these are the times the feeling is the clearest & most powerful.

“If you want to find the secrets of the universe, think in terms of energy, frequency, and vibration.” – Nikola Tesla (Photo:  Cymatics, © Jordi Torrents, CC-BY-SA-4.0)

With each surge, the knowledge builds inside me and even when the feeling recedes the new broader understanding of the flow remains. In the months after my revelation of the third wave-type, I would experience two more massive surges in the flow both bringing with them profound advancements in my understanding of the physics of the FOL.

The FOL works like a musical instrument playing tones of perfect surf.

The final surge would complete my work, offering me the ability to understand how the FOL is, for lack of a better description, a musical instrument that systematically forms water into a symphony of majestic waves. Which isn’t odd at all, as sound waves peel off perfectly all around us all the time. I recommend everyone look into cymatics.

Before we go further into this force, let’s talk about the second problem with standing wave tech. Curvature.

Why is curvature crucial to artificial wave design?

Elijah – Munich 2007, ”Going to Munich was one of the greatest trips of my river surfing crusade but it had everything to do with the community and nothing to do with the wave.” – EM

Curvature is 1/2 of the equation that creates the force I’ve been eluding too. Curvature is king. My perspective on curvature defined my work for MWDG.

When Ben & Rick met with me to discuss my ideas the first thing I said to them was, “Everyone is using straight angles in their whitewater park design. WTF is up with that?”

In my mind using straight angles to form river waves was like putting square tires on a bike.

Ok, to be honest, at that time I didn’t know the names of these straight angles, I thought they were called “right angles”. Regardless of the name, I knew that they had no place in the fluid dynamics of artificial waves.

Why is curvature crucial to artificial wave design?

In my mind using straight angles to form river waves was like putting square tires on a car.

“Who the hell would put square wheels on a bike?” – EM (Photo: Square wheels, © Alan O’Rourke, audiencestack.com, CC BY 2.0)

It’s fluid dynamics 101, whether it’s a liquid, gas or plasma, straight angles create disturbances, so in the case of river waves, these angles shatter the flowing symmetry of the water, like breaking a piece of glass, or feedback through a guitar amp.

Straight angles, if drastic enough, will totally destroy a wave or if they are mild, give a choppy texture to the wave. Ocean surfers refer to this texture as “blown out”, as the main cause of chop in ocean waves is wind.

The bed-form at your local river wave-park should have the same exact shapes you see at your local skatepark

Standing waves, on the other hand, are blown out by the shape of the river bottom, not by the wind. We see this phenomenon all over the word on rivers, it is the norm, not the exception because of the rocky irregular shape of natural riverbeds.

If you are building river waves remember this. The bed-form at your local river wave-park should have the same exact shapes you see at your local skatepark.

“Look at your local skatepark to understand what the bottom of your local river wave-park should look like.” – EM (Photo: Davide Costanzo Davide Costanzo, CC BY 2.0)

Now if you look at the river wave setups in Bend & Conovo or The Citywave & The Wave Unit standing wave machines in Germany, you will see they have straight angles but none of these waves exhibit any chop, this is because their straight angles exist on the sides of the bed-forms, where the walls intersect with the bottom, the water is flowing “straight” down the channel along these straight angles, not into them. If water moves straight along a straight angle there is only a small amount of disturbance and the straight angles on the kickers are not super noticeable because of the amount of water, but they are there.

The truth is Munich fucked up standing wave design.

The word “straight” is key here and it’s the root of the first problem in the majority of standing wave tech.

This brings us to the reason why I believe so many river wave designs are configured in this straightforward manner. It is a direct result of where river surfing originated. Munich. Now let’s be very German about this & not mix emotions with science. I love Munich, the Eisbach and my friends there.

But the truth is Munich fucked up standing wave design the same way the ocean has fucked up wave-pool design.

How could Munich be responsible for the near-sightedness of countless river wave engineers? Well, it boils down to perspective. The majority of river surfers started surfing on a river, so that means for many of these individuals, Munich has been their Mecca, their North Shore, their main source of inspiration for all things river surfing, including wave design.

A good comparison is this is, prior to the first surfers traveling to the North Shore in the 1950s, Waikiki was the most coveted destination for surfers worldwide. But nowadays we know there is no comparison between the waves on the North Shore & Waikiki.

Elijah – Zambezi River 2005, “Rivers saved me from making the same error all my peers made in the wave-pool field.” – EM

And that brings us to the most important aspect of river wave design or any type of wave design for that matter. What force separates Rapid #11 and Munich? What forces separates The Banzai Pipeline from Diamond Head Cliffs?

Angular Momentum.

There it is. Angular Momentum. Simple. Crucial.

But oddly overlooked by the majority of individuals building artificial standing waves. It should be right beside the terms “headwater” “tailwater” “hydraulic jump” “sheet flow” “subcritical” “supercritical” in the “how to build river waves” articles on Riverbreak, but it isn’t.

“River Surf Systems are creating the best standing waves in the industry. They are so far ahead of everyone else there really isn’t any comparison.” – EM (Photo: River Surf Systems)

Before we continue on to standard wave-pool technologies I want to take this time to address the only work I see as cutting edge in the standing wave realm. Tanner and his team at River Surf Systems have the best scale models of the best standing waves in existence. Their work is beautiful and it is rooted in all the right concepts and their work and my work share a number of similarities, which isn’t surprising as the ocean is a primary influence in both technologies. I was filled with joy when I saw their work first appear here on Riverbreak. Tanner gets the importance of angular momentum. Please check them out at https://www.riversurfsystems.com/

Let me explain how the ocean fucked up wave-pool design

Now that we have dealt with standing waves let’s deal with my statement about wave-pools. I think the current wave-pool technologies are outdated. Wait, let me rephrase that. I know the current wave-pool technologies are outdated.

How can I make this claim? Especially, when we have the KSWC, The Cove by Wavegarden, we have Perfect Swell, we have the plunger wave in AUS(my favorite at the moment), and soon we may have The Webber wave-pool, which if you didn’t know is the best iteration of a solitron wave-pool, it’s Kelly’s wave-pool done the way it should be done and don’t lose sight of the fact that Kelly’s wave-pool is basically a supercharged version the original Wavegarden tech.

So we have all these amazing wave-pools now right? Yes, they are the best we’ve ever had.

But does that mean they are the best available? No.

Elijah – Pacific Ocean 1988, “The ocean saved me from making the same errors the majority of my peers made in the river wave / standing wave machine fields.” – EM

All of these wave-pool technologies originated from the same common misconception regarding the best way to form waves. This misconception stems from the same thing I addressed regarding how Munich fucked up river wave design.

Let me explain how the ocean fucked up wave-pool design. All the wave-pools to date stem from the idea that ocean waves offer the best mechanisms to form artificial waves. This is dead wrong. Why?

“Wavepools, as we’ve known them, are as outdated as Disneyland. The form is correct but the formation process is flawed.” – EM (Photo: © Rleslievideo, CC BY-SA 3.0)

Pushing or pulsing a waveform through water isn’t efficient & doesn’t offer much control of wave shape, frequency or amplitude.

All current wave-pool technologies create waves by ”pushing” or ”pulsing” a waveform through water.

“The form is flawed but the foundation of the formation process is correct.” – EM

“Flowing” a current of water into a waveform is the most efficient way to create waves, so standing wave technology is the ideal approach to artificial waves. In this manner of wave generation, when done correctly the momentum of every water molecule is controlled, offering total control of wave shape, frequency, and amplitude.

But the current standing wave tech is not done properly.

“It just made sense that using the pool itself to form the waves would work best for a number of reasons and non-linear forces were at the top of the list. I love big waves and I knew of the current wave-pool technologies, not a single one would ever create waves over 8ft on the face.” – EM (Photo: © Nicolas Douillet, CC-BY-SA-4.0)

And this is where the FOL unifies standing wave & wave-pool technologies, blurring the line between ocean & river surfing and radically reshaping the landscape of artificial waves forever.

The FOL is the first & only wave-pool technology that controls all the properties that define a current and it is the first wave-pool to use a fully malleable or partially malleable bed-form as the mechanism to create surf-able waves.

Flow rate, velocity, lateral angle, vertical angle, origin point, exit point, width, depth. In this manner of wave generation, the momentum of every water molecule is controlled, offering total control of wave shape, frequency, and amplitude.

Even in the less dynamic, rigid iterations of the FOL, the ability to control the shape, frequency, and amplitude of the waveform far exceed that of today’s “pulse” style wave-pool designs.

The FOL is the first & only wave-pool technology that creates a ”traveling standing wave”. This traveling standing wave is unlike any type of wave in the wave-pool world but feels and rides exactly the same as a pulse wave-pool waveform. Even though it starts as a standing wave, once it starts to move in either direction, it assumes the characteristics of an ocean wave breaking over a reef.

The FOL is the only wave-pool technology that creates a ”released standing wave”. This released standing wave is the closest to a pulse wave-pool waveform.

“In this first drawing, I hadn’t come to the final conclusion on what I should call these new wave-types. I imagine there is a proper scientific name for them but since I was the first to figure out how to generate them in a wave-pool for surfing I figured it’s like find a virgin surf spot that you get to name. I also call the traveling standing wave - Tesla’s Reef & the released standing wave Fibonacci’s Point.” – EM

I’ll explain where I found the answer to the complex of the riddle of creating the perfect wave-pool.

The Torus

Both the ocean & river are crucial to the process but they are only 2/3 of the equation. The final piece of the puzzle comes from the Torus. The Torus tells us two things about wave formation.

By moving the crease laterally the stationary standing wave becomes a traveling hydraulic jump(#2-Traveling Standing Wave). Bingo!

First, a cylinder is central to the perfect waveform. Spinning horizontally around the zero points of the Torus is the perfect endless tube. Ocean.

Second, flow is central to the perfect waveform.t Spiraling vertically through the zero point is the perfect contracting & expanding current, flowing endlessly. River.

The Torus is the perfect standing waveform & propagating waveform in one. The FOL translates the quantum mechanical language of the Torus into the classical mechanical language of the perfect surf spot.

The Torus is the bonding agent that unifies propagating & standing waves.

“The great Torus. For me, it is the most beautiful form there is.” – EM

Now let’s look at a few ways to the FOL forms waves and a simple explanation of its core processes.

The first wave-type to form is a simple stationary hydraulic jump(#1-Stationary Standing Wave), this happens when the water flows through the crease in a deflated subsection of the bladder and impacts the back-pool of water below.

The second wave-type occurs when we move the crease either to the left or right, the current of water moves laterally in the chosen direction. The crease is moved by inflating and deflating the interior subsections of the bladder. By moving the crease laterally the stationary standing wave becomes a traveling hydraulic jump(#2-Traveling Standing Wave). Bingo! Now we are onto something. This is the first time in the history of artificial waves that we have this type of wave.

The third wave-type forms as a result of the momentum of the second wave-type. As the traveling standing wave moves through the back-pool it pushes out a propagating wave. I call this wave-type a released hydraulic jump (#3-Released Standing Wave)

The ultimate FOL configuration uses magnetism

Now just to cover the bases here. The most realistic way to build the FOL is with a fabric of some type with inner subsections that are inflated and deflated to control the shape of the bed-form. But the ultimate way to build the FOL is with magnets, utilizing magnetism to create the bed-form.

“It is not surprising that the ultimate version of the ultimate wave-pool tech is created using the same magnetic technology of “free energy”, as the film Thrive is what sparked my spatial visualisation ability.” – EM

One last thing to ponder about why creating waves from a current of water with angular momentum is superior to pulsing waves through in a pool.

We once again go back to the term “perspective”.

The concept of the best waves being the ones that travel through water comes from us watching waves marching across the ocean and peeling off along beaches around the world.

This offers us full control of every drop of water in real time, offering us an almost infinite array of wave shapes.

These waves & the human imagination created surfing. But what creates these waves?

Please pull up a satellite image of a cyclone marching up from the Antarctic towards Australia or a winter storm careening down from the Aleutian islands towards Hawaii or a Hurricane smashing into the east coast of America.

What do you see?

Gravity and Curvature.

Angular momentum.

“From the one comes the many. We must start with the fundamental form.” – EM

Now let’s dig deeper into these wave-types & the different ways to create them.

Examples

#A When the FOL is formatted with three inflatable concentric rings, two spines(top outer half of bladder), with one channel(bottom inner half of bladder)in between the two spines, we have the ability to contain and control the three wave-types inside the channel. We create & control the wave-types by manipulating where the crease is located on the two spines and the channel. This offers us full control of every drop of water in real time, offering us an almost infinite array of wave shapes.

#B By replacing the original outer spine with a shallow spine that sits below the water level in the channel, wave-type #3 will propagate out and peel over this submerged spine just like a standard wave-pool style wave.

#C By adding a second channel and third spin in concentric order to set up #A we can “catch” the wave in the first channel and “throw” it into the second channel. This action can be repeated as many times as there are concentric spines/channels.

#A2 We can achieve similar results with rigid bed-forms by controlling the entry angle of the water from the spines and using valves in the channel to control the water level. But with rigid bed-forms, it is best not to use a full ring. Using any fraction of a full 30 ring allows for much easier back pool manipulation.

#RW These same actions apply in rivers but it’s redundant to illustrate it. Basically, any fractional version of the full ring set up can be used in a river. Most likely the channel would be the rigid river bottom and the two spines would be inflated. But many river wave-parks are just big concrete canals, so in the case of these, it’s simple to install all three sections in inflatable form.

#FB A really simple build-out for a rigid bed-form iteration of the FOL is to simply lay a fan blade or a boat propeller…a really big one… horizontally in a pool of water and pump a current water up through the center so it flows down the blades. The tips of the blades should be partially submerged in the pool. At the tips of the blades, hydraulic jumps will form. The blade can be fixed or the blade can spin.

“Onyx doing his best to help me figure out how to attach a water tube to a fan blade. This boy at the age of 6 held conversations with me about complex concepts related to fluid dynamics. I imagine the younger we are the better we feel the flow.” – EM

The FOL isn’t just a wave-pool, it is a completely new approach to generating artificial waves.

“This video shows a rough example of how two currents meet to form a wave. For the FOL one current is feed into the channel from the inner ring and the other current is fed into the channel from the outer ring. In the channel, the wave can be controlled to form an endless array of wave-forms including the type you see in the video which has two ridable waves that share one crest.” – EM

The FOL has many applications beyond generating waves for surfing. The obvious being a variety of applications related to propulsion, from the simplest such as boats and submarines to the complicated such as aircraft and spacecraft to the highly complicated and yet to be perfected such to anti-gravity, nuclear fusion, warp speed, & time travel.

“My method is different. I do not rush into actual work. When I get a new idea, I start at once building it up in my imagination, and make improvements and operate the device in my mind. When I have gone so far as to embody everything in my invention, every possible improvement I can think of, and when I see no fault anywhere, I put into concrete form the final product of my brain.” – Nikola Tesla

With that said.

“Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex… It takes a touch of genius – and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.” – Albert Einstein (Photo: Albert Einstein, © Vintuitive, CC BY 2.0)

“I believe in divine forces and energies.” – Richard Pryor

Ok now that I’ve dealt with how my work is redefining how surfers look at, scientists think about, and engineers build artificial waves.

Let’s look at how my work is redefining how investors profit from artificial waves.

This aspect of my work is powered by a force that is the foundation for angular momentum in classical mechanics.

Gravity.

Gravity + Curvature = Angular Momentum

But unlike curvature, there is no need to explain this force in relation to the technical aspect of the FOL. Beyond gravity’s key role in the FOL wave formation process, it also holds the key to the biggest issue faced by all wave-pool technologies. Power.

“Although wave-pools are now creating epic waves, they do not achieve the primary goal sought by the surf industry, they do not create surf communities.” – EM (Photo: © Damian Gadal, CC BY 2.0)

The amount of power it takes to operate wave-pools is ridiculous and that is putting it mildly. And it is this issue along with something in fluid dynamics called “non-linear forces” that prevent wave-pools from creating economically viable waves over about 6-8ft on the face. To illustrate how bad this issue is, Kelly’s wave is powered by, and don’t hold me to this exact number, eleven diesel engines … big ones.

Just as gravity is the key to the FOL forming the best artificial waves on earth, gravity also is the key to powering all the artificial waves on earth. There is no reason to ever use a pump again in relation to artificial waves. There is no reason to ever use a combustible engine again in relation to artificial waves.

“The potential energy in the world’s dam infrastructure to create new world surf-spots is mind-boggling.” – EM (Photo: Dam discharge, © Qurren, CC-BY-SA-3.0-migrated)

And now I will finalize this outline on how to create thriving world-wide surf communities far from the oceans.

There are 100,000 dams in the USA & 1,000,000 dams worldwide The amount of untapped potential energy is our world’s dam infrastructure is mind-boggling. Water + Gravity = Power & Waves Utilizing the potential energy is medium, large and major dams combined with the FOL tech allows for waves in excess of 100ft. Do the math.

It is my mission to get perfect wave-parks and wave-pools built into our world’s failing dam infrastructure.

“The amount of high hazard dams in the united states is terrifying. The integration of wave generating devices is the solution to this civil engineering nightmare. When you look at this map, each dot is a potential surf spot.” – EM (Photo: Dam failure,  © WaterArchives.org, CC BY-SA 2.0)

The current business model in the wave-pool industry is as outdated as the wave tech itself. The river-wave industry kinda has it right but only because of the way whitewater parks have been built for the last twenty years.

It’s clear now that river surfing wave-parks are the only artificial waves creating vibrant surf communities & markets

It works like this, a group of kayakers convinces a city that a whitewater park would be great for the local economy, and they were right in most cases but not because a bunch of people started kayaking after the whitewater park was built, but rather because the river-side redevelopment that almost always accompanies the construction of a whitewater park is what brings people to the river.

It’s clear now that river surfing wave-parks are creating vibrant surf communities & markets that develop around the river wave and unlike kayaking, these inland surf cultures across the world are is spreading like wildfire.

So once the billionaires and millionaires who are investing in this artificial wave “space race” realise there is way more money to be made from …”

The one primary factor that must not be overlooked regarding this river wave-parks is that they are free for the public to use at will. No entry fees. Just like local skateparks. Totally inclusive. If you can come up with a surfboard or bodyboard, your in.

This is why the only true inland surf communities are developing around river wave-parks, not wave-pools. And a thriving surf community/market is of far greater monetary value to the surf industry than any money that can be made from building waves or from charging people to surf them.

“It’s clear that individuals such as Adam Neumann are committed to creating perfect waves for the inland regions of the world. It’s up to us who live in these regions to provide these individuals with the information needed to get these goals executed properly. I suggest instead of writing to your senator, you write to Adam or others who share our passion.” – EM (Photo: Adam Neumann, © TechCrunch, CC BY 2.0)

So once the billionaires and millionaires who are investing in this artificial wave “space race” realize there is way more money to be made from everything surrounding these “new world surf-spots”, like real-estate, hard goods, soft goods, services, tourism, etc, they will shift their focus & checkbooks from building waves for profit to building waves to create emerging markets to profit from.

These inland river surf cultures across the world are spreading like wildfire.

And they will understand that getting quality waves built as quickly as possible is the key to all of this.

“The beauty of people will always outshine the power of profit.” – EM

Once again, open source is crucial. to illustrate how important this approach is I want to highlight an experience I shared with @stevelejeunebelgium. Just before publishing The Perfect Path article I saw a post from Steve on IG with his son related to a science project. I reached out to Steve and offered to connect with him and his son to work on waves. He accepted. A few weeks later we had a video chat where I learned his son Dylan is the smartest kid his age in Belgium and I also learned where this young man got it from. As I was explaining how the FOL works in relation to rivers, Steve offered an idea that totally reshaped the format for how the FOL tech could be applied in rivers.

Over the course of developing the FOL very few people grasp it, the lawyer who wrote my provisional patent did, Evan Wolf from Half Moon Day did, both of these individuals even knew how magnetism was the ultimate iteration without me offering up that insight. But Steve was the only person I’ve ever met who brought a thought I hadn’t considered yet. A thought that simplified so much it much simpler to create portable inflatable “Wave Weirs”. This single call reinforced my faith in the concept of sharing information for the greater good rather than hoarding information for individual profit.

“Love binds us all. This force is greater than any other. Let us not discount the importance of how love flows, because just as it takes intention & effort to form perfect waves, the same is true for love. Be mindful that we are all one family. Love each other, just do that one thing and I promise we can repair our world” – EM

I will leave you with something to ponder. Envision water as the lifeblood of the earth, the rivers being half of the vascular system, which is clogged and weak, barely able to do its job and let’s consider the land as the body and oceans as the heart and the atmosphere as the other half of the vascular system. This entire system works just as I’ve laid it out. The oceans are the heart and the atmosphere and rivers pump the blood through the lands, the lands we call home.

“It is my spiritual & scientific belief that everything is interconnected and the highest form of human existence is interdependence. To truly thrive as a species, and Shepard all the species of the earth, we must accept the ultimate truth, that we are all one. And we must accept this fact soon” – EM

Each of us must be aware of what we have to offer the world and focus on that. You wouldn’t hire a roofer to lay the foundation slab for your home. The FOL technology and my concepts related to integrating artificial waves into the world dam infrastructure is what I have to offer. I do not believe it’s a coincidence the FOL tech comes directly from God and that it ties directly into a course of action to repair the world’s rivers.

Thank you for looking into my work. I offer this work openly with the hope it will help repair our world and bring us all closer to God.

Aloha
Mack

P.S. I didn’t forget that I said I would share the key to creating perfect river waves. :)

Now I’ll share with you the KEY to easily creating perfect river waves. Every 3rd grader has done it

The KEY to creating perfect river waves is super simple and I’m stoked to share this with the world.

I love the word symmetry, I always have, even when I was young decades before I thought about creating waves, its just a magical word. So it is no surprise that bilateral symmetry holds the key to engineering hydraulic jumps. I knew this key existed early on in my work but I didn’t figure out how easy it is to express until recently, as in about two weeks prior to publishing this article. To explain how this works I have to address a name I have given this phenomenon, I had to give it a name because I can’t find any reference to this phenomenon in any fluid dynamics literature anywhere let alone any literature related to artificial waves. I call it. The uneven forces of the bilateral symmetry of sheet flow and hydraulic jump standing waves. I have been able to explain it like this since entering the lab with Ben Nielsen way back in 2014- “If you take the same shape used by the Flowriders to create their sheet flow standing waves all that is needed to create a hydraulic jump mirror image of the sheet flow wave is this.

“Just flip the script. It’s that easy. Say it with me… The uneven forces of the bilateral symmetry between sheet flow & hydraulic jump standing waves.” – EM (Photo: Flowrider, © U.S. Navy)

1. Reverse the direction of the flow. This means you would change the origin point of the flow from the bottom of the front of the wall to the back of the top of the wall.

2. Decrease the velocity. The FlowRider shoots water up the wall at about 33mph, want to slow this down to about 11-15mph.

3. Increase the flow rate exponentially. Based on Tanner’s calculations at River Surf Systems we should assume the flow rate should be multiplied by thirty. This means the depth of the flow should increase from about 1″, the depth of the water on Flowriders, to about 1′-3′.

4. Create a back pool at the bottom of the wall.

Now with this simple formula, you can create the exact same shape seen in the original configuration as a sheet flow standing wave, as a hydraulic jump standing wave.

Here is a video that expresses how simple this fact of fluid dynamics is. Every child that has ever folded & cut a piece of paper to create the shape of a butterfly or a string of snowflakes has unknowingly held in their hands the solution to a problem that has stumped all the whitewater kayak park, standing wave machine, and river surf park, engineers to this day.

“Truly I tell you unless you change and become like little children, you will never enter the kingdom of heaven” – Matthew 18:3

Huge Alohas go out to Phil and Kirk for always offering me a platform on Riverbreak and Landlocked Surfing.

*ADDITION-

This article has been ready to publish for over a month but we have held off due to some logistical constraints. Well, this is a blessing. In the past few weeks, two things have transpired.

So therefore, I will share a little more.

1. First, an article in the Wall Street Journal stated these guys want to charge 135$ an hour to surf! A big mega Las Vegas amusement park resort in the desert! So yes these dudes just proved my point. Machines of mass consumption chlorinated water pumped in from Colorado. This is insanity.

Reno NV is where the first world-class wave park should be built. The Truckee river will have perfect waves that range from 3-15ft all year are fresh river water with minor mods to the existing 14 million dollars white water park built-in 2003. Inclusive. Free to the general public. Just like a beach in California.

The surf industry is one of mass consumption, waste and extremely hazardous materials. WE have yet to see a positive environmental shift in manufacturing despite viable eco-friendly economic options. We guzzle gas, spewing exhaust and guzzle energy drinks.

Now they want to build huge surfing Disneylands. They want to build waves pools in Malls or in the middle of the desert. They want to build wave pools in airports. They want to build wave pools in stadiums. WTF!?

2. Second, Surflakes AUS, the revamped “plunger” wave has inspired me to share a bit about the FOL wave tech I was gonna hold back to see if anyone could figure it out themselves. I figured it would be a mathematician who would make the connection. From the moment I saw the Surflakes tech I was excited that they were clued into the truth of 360′ and they get “arc” but the set up was too weak. But now that the plunger wave is kicking out some legit size and epic shape I figured I would share with the world why their wave rivals Waco and The Cove tech. I will share what is beyond the arc. It is because of the cardioid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUaRWL_HLhU

Mandelbrot. Yes, fractals. Now you need to throw in timetables. And You need to understand “rolling” & “Petals”.

Surf lakes produce a small portion of the momentum called the Cardioid, this roll, and petal process is happening in a very remedial form. The water rolls off the arc of the plunger. There are a vertical arc axis and a horizontal arc axis to the plunger. The moving momentum of the water rolled by the plunger, naturally self organizes into self-similarity petal shapes as this is the natural course of the mathematical waveform in water. This self-similarity is identical to the Mandelbrot FOL produces the complete momentum of the cardioid. The FOL is to water what the computer is to MandelBrot imagery. The Mandelbrot timetable are the blueprint. Marko Rodin’s mapping of the Torus skin ties directly yo the Mandelbrot. Weaving the Rodin code to the interior of the torus is key.

*** This is really important ****

Here is a video that explains this momentum. The video is showing you this in 2D.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=436&v=qhbuKbxJsk8

3. Oh, wait there is a third thing, the new Boise wave. There is an article that speaks about how the design was inspired by the Munich wave or one of the new Munich wave knock-off machines and this 100% confirms my case about how Munich has inspired these flawed waves. I was excited to see this new wave. What a letdown. I rest my case.

Oh, Shit!!! Ken Hill. He is the most unsung wave designer ever. His patent is what AWM used to build their Surfstream. He has been dreaming up, patenting and designing perfect waves for years!!! So grateful for your work brother!

“Love is the perfect waveform.” – EM

Aloha
Mack

The post An Idiot’s Guide To Wave Building appeared first on Riverbreak.

First, as a pioneer, he has spread and united the fragmented communities in the early development of river surfing. Second, he has thought out the ultimate of effective technologies in developing the”Perfect Wave” form within moving water.

Through the history of surfing, there have been key impacts on the progress of surfing made by genius pioneers: those who originally brought surfing from Hawaii and spread it across the world, and those who have developed the new technologies that have exponentially raised the quality of the surfing experience. Elijah has stepped forth as a most recent of these genius pioneers who has done BOTH!

He thought out how the vectors could shape water into that “Perfect Wave”.

When I look back on my own life as a surfer, which spans over 60 years, I remember had the fortune of witnessing some of these impacts. We all know that surfing originated in Hawaii and how Duke Kahanamoku and George Freeth brought it to California where it expanded in popularity along the coast and later worldwide via Australia, France, South Africa, and beyond. However, to experience surfing, one had to go to the coastline, where the ocean provided the crucial element: the waves!

In my youth, the popularity of surfing had become a high-powered culture on the coast. It even had established its own music genre, which influenced the way I play my electric guitar. Then, in about 1967, a neighbor called me and my surfing friends over to his back yard. Strewn on the lawn were these strange “space machine” surf vehicles that were half the length of a regular surfboard of the time (now called “longboard”) and sported huge foiled, flexible fins and v-bottom hull designs. There, I met George Greenough, the pioneer genius who had invented these designs through the Physics concepts behind the vectors of velocity, acceleration, and force. And there, I also met Bob McTavish, an Australian “test pilot” who had incorporated these revolutionary concepts into the “space machine” surfboards I saw. That evening, I got to see the result at Rincon Point, as both of these pioneers tore across the huge walls of water at unseen velocity, accelerating into 180 degree turns and flying within and over liquid barrels with never-before-seen power!

Elijah extensively explored and worked to bring these emerging communities together into a new worldwide culture.

From that moment, I understood what was happening, and within a week, had built a surfboard of my own, which changed the way I surfed forever! From those days in the 60′s, surfing has expanded exponentially along the coasts of all the continents of the Earth. But, hidden elsewhere, far from the oceans and coastlines, were places where phenomena of moving water in rivers produced surfable waves of their own.

And like the Duke and George Freeth, I witnessed another such pioneer, Elijah Mack, who travelled to these hidden places to discover these inland waves, and connected with the emerging surfing communities that had begun the spread of surfing inland … Places like Munich, Switzerland, the Pacific Northwest, and the Canadian Rockies. Like his predecessors, Elijah extensively explored and worked to bring these emerging communities together into a new worldwide culture. Thus, River Surfing was born!

But that was not all. Elijah had that rare inner mind that could envision the Physics vectors behind the all that made river surfing possible. While Greenough and McTavish had developed the watercraft designs that harnessed the vectors of velocity, acceleration, and force, Elijah Mack’s mind delved into the vectors that created the surfing waves themselves from that unique chemical that covers our planet: WATER!

Elijah’s words are complex, but read them carefully.

He thought out how the vectors could shape water into that “Perfect Wave”! Now, through his designs, it has become possible to create a perfect surfing wave anywhere. So, in his articles that follow this introduction of mine, Elijah releases to all, the “secrets” of his inventive technology, so that it will be possible for surfing to spread to ANYONE, ANYWHERE!

Elijah’s words are complex, but read them carefully. For within his article is the incredibly simple and fundamental “magic formula” for anyone with the inspiration to bring it all to reality, just like I witnessed in ocean surfing 50 years ago.

The post David Allan about Elijah Mack: The man behind the Perfect Wave appeared first on Riverbreak.

“Quantum theory is not just one of many theories in physics; it is the one theory that has profoundly affected nearly every other branch of physics. There is hardly an aspect of contemporary society or of our own individual lives that has not already been fundamentally transformed by the ideas and applications of quantum physics. One third of our economy involves products based on quantum mechanics – things such as computers and the Internet, lasers, MRI’s, TV’s, DVD’s, CD’s, microwaves, electron microscopes, mobile phones, transistors, silicon chips, semiconductors, quartz and digital watches, superconductors and nuclear energy. And yet, even with the huge impact quantum physics has had on all of our lives, this effect is infinitesimally small compared with what it will be when more of us recognize and internalize the implications of what it is revealing to us about the nature of reality as well as of ourselves” – Paul Levy.

“If you only knew the magnificence of the 3, 6 and 9, then you would have a key to the universe.” – Nicola Tesla

When one does not love themselves how can they love others. In the modern world it takes work to love one’s self. My favorite teacher is Louise L. Hay who just left this earth recently but what she shared with the world will carry on for as long as humans desire to heal their hearts. The only way to break the cycle of fear is to learn to love yourself, this is not a selfish act but rather a selfless act because once you understand how to forgive, accept and love yourself only then can you be of service to others. I stand in front of the mirror everyday, I see tattoos that say things like “Revenge” “Fuck You & Die” “Pay Backs A Bitch”. These ugly messages are laced into a patchwork of skulls and demons and other images of death and destruction. I see all the scars scattered across my body. I see the misshapen body parts from broken bones that never healed properly. But when I look past those parts of me and I stare into my eyes, I see the beautiful gaze of my mother staring back at me. I see my father’s kind smile. I see all the love they felt for me and I realize I am not a demon. I am a human being. I am a child of God. I am alive so there is still hope. And I speak out loud these words. “I love you. I forgive you. I accept you.”

It’s important to see the big picture here. Everything is made from waves. You are made from waves. Would you rather be a freezing cold blown out 1ft beach break mush burger or a tropically warm 10ft glassy perfectly tubing point break? Quantum physics is proving we create our reality with our thoughts. So make sure your mind body and soul are healthy and whole.

I believe my work related to wave-pool technology to be of greater spiritual importance than the massive impact it will have on the recreational pastime of surfing, it was acutely inspired by. I do not believe it is a coincidence the Hawaiian’s created both, surfing, the sport of kings and the word, Aloha, the most expansive word in any human language expressing the infinitely describable force we call love. This spirit of love resides in all human beings, as it is fundamental to our reality but it was the Hawaiian’s connection to riding waves that gave them the ability to quantify this “Aloha” spirit with a single word.

If I told you I can build a better wave-pool than any in existence today using a donut you would say I was either delusional or high as fuck.

Almost 20 years ago I told the world that there were perfect waves in rivers all over the planet and the future of surfing would one day be on these rivers. Well, the world is still catching up to my delusional ass but if you google “river surfing” you will see that people are starting to surf on rivers all over the planet.

It’s really stupid to build a wave pool in a mall and it’s just as stupid to build a wave-park into a natural segment of a river.

I’ve always said that for river surfing to truly explode we need to build perfect river waves integrated into the world dam infrastructure. It’s really stupid to build a wave pool in a mall and it’s just as stupid to build a wave-park into a natural segment of a river.

Well over the past 6 years as I sought to heal my soul, a very odd thing happened. I was blessed with the ability to channel the world’s most advanced wave-pool technology. I wasn’t trying to figure out how to build waves, I was trying to figure out how to rebuild my life and my family. So many truths can be found in this wave function from the simple symmetry of our breath, one of our most powerful tools to calibrate our life with the universe, to understanding the karmic law that governs everything. So yeah, I am telling you I can and I still hold out with great hope that I will build the world’s best wave-pool out of a fucking donut, but more importantly, I’m telling you everything is connected and you better realize there is a God. God’s name is Love, you can’t find it in a book and you don’t spell it with letters, you spell it will numbers.

These numbers are 3-6-9.

I do not have the patience to write out all the seemly impossible coincidences that surround the development of The Fountain of Life wave-tech, as they are vast in number. I only use the word coincidence to illustrate that I do not believe in such a thing. The correct word is synchronicity, coined by Carl Yung. I believe it’s when our perspective is clear enough to sync with the fabric of the universe, we get a glimpse of the universal connection that binds everything. But because writing isn’t my strength and I have labored for far longer than I’d like share just to get out the following article, I have chosen to leave out so many of these moments of synchronicity that have shaped my life and focused on just a few that were profound to say the least. I will share an example of this phenomenon in relation to the man, who I believe to be the greatest scientific & spiritual mind of the modern world, Nicola Tesla. One of the landmark moments related to his work came just after his death, when the US supreme court reversed a patent awarded to an Italian inventor for radio transmission that was stolen from Tesla’s work and the court awarded the patent to Tesla. The number of the US supreme court decision was #369. This is just one of many numerical anomalies related to Tesla’s life. Tesla’s body of work to this day is the backbone of modern technology.

I will build the world’s best wave-pool out of a fucking donut.

It was July 16th, 2016, I was 46 years old, I had just sealed a handshake deal earlier in the day with Bob McKnight, founder of Quiksilver to design a standing wave machine for him and his business partner in a venture to bring wave machines to the non coastal areas of America. That morning I had flown into San Diego from Chicago where I was the main-stage educator at a major barbering trade show, I had been jet setting around the country for the past 2 years working as one of the most sought-after educators in the industry, dating a plethora of young beautiful hairstylists from NYC to San Francisco and all points between, I also was killing half a liter of Vodka before 10am just to keep pace with my fast and lose lifestyle.

I thought I was in control and the universe had other plans in store for my life.

Arriving in San Diego I rented a black Mercedes Benz and drove to my lifelong best friend Louis Hayward’s home in Carlsbad. Lou founded INT soft-boards and revolutionized the soft-top surfboard industry when he created the Blackball Beater soft-board. Lou is also one of the most respected and connected individuals in the surf industry and a close friend and confidant of Bob McKnight. Lou also has been my biggest supporter in both my river surfing and my wave design endeavors and had set up three separate meetings with Bob over the past three years, so I could present my ideas on wave design and building wave-parks into the world’s dam infrastructure. I dropped my bags off at Lou’s and set out to pick up $15,000 that was waiting for me at another friend’s home. I’ll omit why that money was waiting for me but it wasn’t related to hair or waves.

Just before driving up to meet with Bob. This photo is of Lou myself and Lou’s younger brother Daniel. Danny is possible the best surfer to ever come out of Oceanside but he could stomach the industry so he walked away from it all. Danny and Lou are my two longest standing best friends in my life. These men have stood behind me the entire way, supporting me in my darkest days.

I met Lou an hour later and we drove up for our meeting with Bob and his business partner … I forget his name and the name of the golf company he owned. The two prior meetings with Bob consisted of me scribbling shit on napkins about my wave designs, while explaining why building waves below dams was the real future of artificial waves and how it would rapidly take the sport of surfing across the landlocked portions of the globe, this meeting was only different for the fact that I didn’t scribble anything at all, I just told Bob I could easily design the type of wave-machine they were asking for, it was a very basic design, nothing like what I wanted to build but who in their right mind would say no to an opportunity like this? I looked at it like this would open the door for me to convince Bob of the bigger DAM picture.

I just told Bob I could easily design the type of wave-machine they were asking for

The drive back to Carlsbad was surreal. Here I was … this oddball outcast who had never fit into the surf industry or the greater surf culture for that matter, in-fact since my early teen years I had been very vocal about my distain for the majority of the surf culture with the exception of the Hawaiian surf culture, which is ironic because so many people have the impression that Hawaii is a heavy place where localism is out of control, which couldn’t be further from the truth, in reality Hawaii is the only place in the world that you can paddle out at the most localized breaks like Third Dip or Makaha Point on Oahu’s Westside and not be met with immediate unprovoked aggression by the locals, and if you keep your mouth shut, understand the pecking order and wait patiently in the channel, more often than not one of the locals will call you into a wave eventually … and you better make it or at least give a valiant effort or you probably won’t get another shot in that session. In Hawaii, you are always given a chance to show you can conduct yourself with respect and if you do, you will be treated with respect. The majority of the rest of the surfing world isn’t as civil as our Hawaiian counterparts.

And by the time of this third meeting with Bob I had even become an outcast in the sport of river surfing but that’s a story of it’s own to vast to touch on here.

So I was fully blown away by what had just transpired an hour earlier, I was about to reshape the wave-pool industry with Bob backing my work. I even got to meet one of my favorite surfers of all-time, Mickey Nielsen that day at the Quicksilver headquarters. I was walking on water.

Pipeline is the crown jewel of Oahu’s North Shore and Mickey Nielsen is one of the hardest charging locals ever to surf the spot. He was one of my favorite surfers when I was a youth and his casual style in big heavy surf was a huge influence on my style. So when we walked out of the meeting and Mickey came strolling down the hall and Bob introduced Lou and I, it was the icing on the cake to end our day at Quicksilver headquarters.

I was about to reshape the wave-pool industry with Bob backing my work.

That night after our meeting, I went out on the town, my hometown, Oceanside, CA. A place where I had been through all of the school district’s continuation schools, in and out of jail, homeless and very much at odds with the emerging surf industry community in Oceanside, as my hometown became a hub for board builders, clothing brands and surf magazines. I wasn’t the clean cut bubbly blonde surfer dude who said “rad” and “stoked”. I didn’t fit in with the surf culture at all. But now here I was back home wearing my proverbial glass slippers. The prodigal son had come home. I rolled out with that $15k stuffed in my pockets, flashing that cash like a trophy wife shows off her new boob job and her fat ass diamond wedding ring. I was rolling from club to club in the black Benz , bumping Sean Price full blast, I even got invited up on stage at the comedy club because the comedian was fascinated by the fact I had so much cash stuffed in my pockets which was intentionally and pridefully on full display when I’d pull it out to buy drinks. I was so fucking full of myself it seems unreal now as I look back in time. I thought I had life by the balls.

I really thought I was a rich man but in reality I was spiritually and emotionally bankrupt.

Then at 11:11pm as I was driving back to my hotel, I received a text from my ex-wife, it was a mugshot of my 19yr old son, who had never been in any trouble in his life, he had just graduated high school a few weeks earlier. At first I figured it was something petty, something minor, something stupid, something a teenager would do, drunk in public or busted with a little weed or at worst a DUI. My mind couldn’t adjust at first as my eyes focused on the three charges below his mugshot. 1. Attempted Murder- 2. First Degree Robbery – 3. First Degree Assault. My son had shot another man in a drug deal gone wrong. At that moment in time everything that had just held great value to me a few seconds prior became worthless. At that moment everything changed. I walked away from everything that night, the deal with Bob whom I still haven’t spoken with since our meeting, my career in hair and all the fame it brought me and all the money it made me. I left it all behind.

I embarked on an almost three-year journey to heal my family and change who I was.

This was one month prior to Chance’s crime and arrest.

The only thing more unbelievable than the fact that a high school drop out and total fuck up could be responsible for the world’s most advanced wave-pool technology, is the story behind how I acquired this technical knowledge.

It is clear now that the first spark of my vision for what would later become The Fountain of Life wave-pool was in late Sept 2000 … possibly Sept 21st, but I didn’t mark the date … in Phoenix, AZ when I experienced the epiphany that reshaped my surfing life and ignited my river surfing quest, I realized as I stared at a canal with small wave in it, that there were standing waves breaking on the rivers across the world. My second “moment of clarity” was on my first trip to Skookumchuck Narrows which occurred the moment I was sucked into a whirlpool just behind the main wave, That day, Sept 21st, 2003, was one of the most impactful of my life. When I surfaced from the hold down, I instantly knew something major had transpired and was terrified a tragedy had befallen one of my young sons. I drove all night from BC back to Eugene, too scared to call home to ask about my children’s welfare. When I arrived home, I would find out that my step-father had died the day prior and his time of death was during the time period I was sucked into the whirlpool.

On my second trip to Skookumchuck I saw the Tubesteak wave form up. I finally rode the Tubesteak wave on my fourth trip, July 5th 2005. What can I say about Skook? It’s a very special place to me. I went there a dozen times from 2003 thru 2007. It changed my life.

What made this experience so impactful was the fact that my beloved cousin Troy Mclure was killed on sept 21st 2001. Troy and my step dad were two peas in a pod, both big bears of men and both gentle giants and they were very close with each other. It was at Troy’s funeral that my step dad would challenge me to move beyond my selfish ways, resulting in a physical altercation between him and me, which compelled me to drive to Eugene, OR where I would first end up homeless and then rebuild my life, leading up to my Skookumchuck trip. As I stated at the start, there are far to many coincidences to list in this article but the date Sept 21st was one of the first to wake me up to the fact that everything is connected. I was waking up to the fact that God speaks to us through synchronicity.

Up until April 2019 I had believed my vision for wave design had spontaneously emerged just after my mother’s death in 2013, which was the pivotal event that kicked my vision into overdrive, but now I see these other experiences played major roles also.

My spatial visualization ability is the result of a rare mental disorder called Acquired Savant Syndrome which was triggered by my mother’s death. All other known cases, only about 100 worldwide, are the result of either a rare type of dementia or a traumatic brain injury, mine is the only known case triggered by a traumatic emotional experience.

My vision first presented itself on Sept 21st, 2013 … there is that date again … a few months after her death while watching the film “Thrive” when I was exposed to the great Torus. And if you are not aware of the Torus I suggest you google it right away.

My concepts would attract the attention of Ben Neilsen & Rick McGluaghlin of MWDG, they flew out to meet with me in Portland, Oregon to discuss my work in person. This meeting lead to MWDG hiring my consulting firm, fresH2O, to work on the scale modeling of the South Platte River-park project located just outside of Denver, CO. The main objective I was brought onboard for, was to create a barreling river wave. I achieved this goal. The work was covered by Riverbreak and the Portland Monthly and at the time was revolutionary in the world of river-wave engineering.

“It became very apparent that he had valid ideas granted super outside the box. Eli’s concepts are robust – they are complex and radical, but also make sense.” – Ben Nielsen

Ben had this to say about my work: “I’ve known Elijah for years. What can I say, he is an icon in river surfing. When you’ve surfed as many waves as he has it’s not surprising that he understands waves, he feels waves. Rick and I flew out and met with Elijah in Portland a few years ago and we geeked out on waves for a couple days. It became very apparent that he had valid ideas granted super outside the box. We thought, “with our expertise in waves over the past two decades combined with the creative ideas Elijah has, we just might come up with something truly special”. Sometimes you just have to follow your instincts. That’s just what we did bringing Elijah into the lab. The level of wave progression that happened over that week at CSU was amazing. My guess is there has never been a week in wave design that had moved river surfing further into the future. Elijah approaches wave design very intuitively. You can see him drawing on the hundreds of waves and thousands of rides he has had all over the world when he works in the lab. Eli’s concepts are robust – they are complex and radical, but also make sense. I think many of the concepts will take some time to dial in and get built in their purest form, but we are already integrating many aspects into current designs. Surfers are demanding newer better waves MWDG and fresH2O are going to meet and exceed these expectations. It’s an exciting time to be design surf waves.” -Ben Nielsen

After this work at CSU, I did some work developing a strategy for MWDG to market river wave-parks designed for surfers but there wasn’t much follow though from MWDG and any hopes of building perfect waves fell by the wayside.

Now fast forward to July 16th, 2017, one year after my sons’s arrest and my meeting with Bob. I am living out of my car in SF, broke, depressed, barely holding on to my touch with reality and on the verge of making a YouTube video to share my wave design concepts with the world so they didn’t vanish from the world, as I was wishing for death to end my despair at what my life and my family had become. On that day exactly one year after the meet and arrest, I received a call from Lou telling me about how he had just met a woman who was putting together a project for Lockheed Martin to be funded by their Moonshot division, a branch of the company that funds next generation technology, basically the most radical and different technologies out there. The project was to build a wave-pool on camp Pendleton military base with the purpose to provide soldiers with a surfing experience that she believed would help them heal and process the mental/emotional/physical issues(PTSD) related to their exposure to war. Ironically, Oceanside, the town I grew up in is the port city for Camp Pendleton.

The woman Lou had met is Kate McKinnon, she works with MIT and the US Navy to list just a few, she is a “solver”, which just means she is someone who figures out how to overcome really serious problems. Kate would become my greatest mentor; she didn’t offer me direct insight into designing wave-pools, but she would show me what it was that I was seeing in my head. I was seeing the same things that her life-partner, Charles Chase, head of the Revolutionary Technologies Laboratory of the Skunk Works division at Lockheed Martin, saw in his head related to his primary project, developing nuclear fusion.

LM Skunk Works Divsion. Spending a weekend with Charles Chase, head of The Revolutionary Technologies Laboratory was one of the highlights of my wave designing journey. The same patterns found in the flowing waters of the Fountain of Life have remarkable similarities to the “good wave form” patterns found in the beta plasma physics of the compact fusion generator Charles and his team are working on at LM.

My wave-pool concepts were more closely related to beta-plasma physics than anything to do with surfing, in either the oceans or rivers. I wasn’t seeing wave-pools, I was seeing wave functions in quantum realm. This was the most exciting time of my entire life. I was invited to join Kate and others from Lockheed to ride Kelly Slater’s wave-pool and the Wavegarden wave-pool in Austin Texas after our team’s meeting in early September. Kate was seeking funding for a large facility for the team to work out of in Boston. Life really was surreal. Over the next month her and my emails would open my mind beyond what I ever thought possible. Kate is a full-blown genius, the kind that when you talk to her, you have to wonder if she is talking directly to God inside her head as she is holding verbal conversation with you. I watched her type on her computer with one hand while she was texting on her phone with her other hand, while she held a conversation with one of our team’s project manager. Kate assembled a team of a dozen individuals called the “coherence” team. I was under the impression my role on the team was to be the primary wave designer. And because of “my ability to see in pictures” Kate hoped I could help her team understand the process of “creation” in a way they hadn’t grasped yet.

I wasn’t seeing wave-pools, I was seeing wave functions in quantum realm.

Kate had these things to say about my work: “I’ve been looking for the high-interval people who think in pictures.

I have been asking the Universe for you, because your mind + my mind + the minds of my team can do the “Things”. Through you, because you think in pictures, I can speak to the portion of Creation that right now is a closed door to my people. It’s all too fantastic. I think you see more than I do, actually, because yes, you saw right away how the Hypar can power the Torus. So much to say here. You also intuitively know that there is no such thing as a particle, and why. You are absolutely correct that everything scales, and everything can be represented in waves. If you see a thing that is not perfect at all levels, it is not real, it is not coherent, and if it is math then you know it needs more work. This is much like the problem in physics right now; the Standard Model needs too much tweaking; it doesn’t match what people study in the quantum world. We can help them. I think you are talking about more than just a surfing wave with the T-form, right? You are talking about Wave-In-Balance, the Coherence Wave. Is that right? The wave of creation, the waveform our mind takes when we are in the zone? You, Eli, are brilliant and yes, I am here to teach you our language, and you are here to show me your insights, and they match perfectly, and yes, we will build your wave. I promise you. Soon in fact.” – Kate McKinnon.

A selfie Kate took of her and Charles for me the day before we met in person.They changed my life and blew my mind.

The weekend of Sept 10th 2017 was when the entire team met in Carlsbad, CA. The common thread with the entire team was that everyone in some way or another was experiencing “toroidal force” in their lives. The Sunday of that weekend, I would live through the most profound spiritual experience of my life. I spent the better part of 8 hours in what can only be explained as a non-stop synchronicity. I felt like I was on the very best MDMA ever created but I was stone cold sober. This great ride would come crashing down in a matter of 24 hours. Kate’s project was scrapped for reasons still unknown. But basically, what I thought was about to be a full-time job with great pay designing wave-pools for Lockheed martin all evaporated. Kate says “I suppose I was too revolutionary for Lockheed Martin and they canceled my funding.”

And that was that. The ride closed out.

I would fall into an even greater depression than the one I was in just prior to meeting Kate, hitting one of the lowest point in my life.

Months later, a river surfer and banker, Jeff Banks, from Boise, Idaho would approach me with an offer to fund my wave tech.

Because of this offer I finally sat down to write/draw out a patent for my tech, something I had procrastinated for years. I am not a fan of keyboards or pen and paper. I was a severely dyslexic child with major learning disabilities that placed me in intensive special education throughout my entire years in school and I still find any communication other than verbal to be very strained.

And even though this banker’s support would vanish as unexpectedly … well maybe not unexpectedly, I saw the writing on the wall but I never saw it in contract form … and as bizarrely as the Lockheed Martin deal, I pushed through the process of writing my patent and this is when the biggest breakthroughs came, and the totality of the wave tech would come to light. During this time I spent many hours meditating and fasting, both self-imposed and imposed by my financial situation. I was broke and living in my car but made sure I came up with the 1,500$ to pay for the provisional patent. That was May 11th, 2018.

And so here we are now, May 15th 2019. My material existence has been stripped to the bone, literally, just after I published my provisional patent I had my car broken into and every possession I had left to my name stolen, with the exception of my briefcase that held my computer and all my wave design work. I was so grateful my briefcase was still in the car that I wasn’t really that upset. I also know this process I’m going through is part of the healing I need to achieve. I believe these difficult times will last in so form or another until my son is released from prison. We are both in our own prisons and they are tied together on the quantum level. I’m working in the local 261 laborers union, busting my ass digging ditches, living in shared room in a flop-house apartment in the worst district of San Francisco but I’m working for one of my best friends for a good wage and I’m still strong enough to do the work, I have little barbershop I just opened in Eugene, OR … it’s still costing more to run than it’s bringing money in, and I’m the closest I’ve ever been with my family. I am sober, celibate, focused and full of faith, hope, and love. So even though I’m nowhere near the level of success I was almost 3 years ago, I’m pretty sure I now have a better vision for what success really is and I don’t mind doing what it takes to get there. The key, I believe, is that I understand I created everything I’m experiencing and that I’m now facing my karma and I need to respond to these difficult times with compassion and gratitude. I must do this WORK if I ever want to be a truly positive influence on my family. So …

“It’s not like we grew up in some crazy environment, my dad was the chess club mentor, he didnt smoke weed around us and I’ve seen him get drunk twice in my life, he worked hard and taught us to think for ourselves, he was dedicated. But my dad grew up hard and he had lots of emotional issues. He was super depressed a lot and would get mad easy. But after my brother was aressted he made it his life’s purpose to change who he was, I was with him for the start in SF and I saw what he went through. I admire my dad. It’s a big thing to rewrite who you are.” – Hurricane Mentawai

I am publishing my work and the provisional patent in the public domain with the intention of preventing any individual or company from ownership of this tech. Now …

This tech is the result of faith, hope and love.

This tech is a gift from God inspired by tragedies in my life caused by my neglect and reckless behavior towards life itself and the people I love most. It has been and still is my intention to change myself, to become the change I want to see in the world. This is an ongoing pursuit. This tech is the result of faith, hope and love. This tech is my gift to the world in hopes it will inspire faith, hope and love.

The reason my tech is so unique compared to all other wave tech is because my understanding of fluid dynamics is rooted not in my love of surfing, it is rooted in my desire to shed the ego and align my spirit with God.

I am offering this tech, hoping it will spark a truly open source approach to building waves.

And because this is the superlative wave tech it won’t be long before the world realizes how simple it is to create perfect surf from these basics blueprints I’m offering and that no individual or company should stifle this tech. So hopefully anyone will be able to build it and anyone will be able to profit from it, if they desire, but no one will be able to stop others from using it.

Figure 5 A and B from the provisional patent (PDF).

The Fountain of Life wave generator tech is inspired by many things that have nothing to do with surfing.

While everyone has been drooling over KSWC, the new Waco wave-pool or the new wave garden Cove tech or the plunger wave-pool in Australia, I’ve been banging my head against the wall wondering why I couldn’t even give this tech away. Well the answer is karma. It’s my karmic path to dig ditches while Kelly Slater builds waves. This is no slight to Kelly, when I was getting drunk and running in the streets, he was living a clean focused purpose driven life. So I salute and honor his karmic path and I salute and honor the hard work he has put into developing his wave-pool. But now as I reassert myself into the flow of life as a changed man, I salute and honor my karmic path and my wave pool tech, which will forever change how waves are built and it will reshape every existing wave-pool tech on the market to date.

The Fountain of Life wave generator tech is inspired by many things that have nothing to do with surfing, the I Ching, electro-magnetism, acoustics, karma & the atom to name just a few. The Fountain of Life is more closely related to the “good wave-form” of plasma physics than it is any standard wave-pool tech. I see this flow everywhere and in everything. Open your heart, close your eyes, calm your mind and I promise you will see it too.

The Fountain of Life wave generator is based on the complete mathematical structure of the ‘universal’ wave-form. All other ‘fractional’ wave-forms are derivatives of the universal wave-worm. The blue print for the perfect wave. The ability to start with the whole is the key as the one makes the many in its likeness, if there is any imbalance in the one the imbalance will be magnified in the many and the wave-form cycle will not be “perfect” for surfing or for life.

Sketch of the wave control tech, detailed in the provisional patent (PDF)

The Fountain of Life wave generator forms H2O using a mathematical code, similar to how a musical instrument plays sheet music. The music of divine proportion. Balance. Control. Control of the whole provides the ability to utilize every H2O molecule, which provides optimal energy transference & wave-form structural stability. The ability to create an almost limitless array of waves in real time using a control board or a pre-programed code.

I made this from bike tire inntubes, a toilet plunger, a yoga mat and a fish tank water pump. It was made to offer a visual representation the basic design of the FOL. It wasn’t to scale and wasnt built with the intention of making a proper functioning representation of the FOL three different wave types.

Here is the deal. I am showing the world how to build perfect waves. I am telling the world that there are one million dams across the globe and integrating wave machine into this infrastructure is how we build the brave new surf world. No pumps. No diesel engines. No lawsuits. No bullshit. Just build the best waves possible. And love each other, just be kind, love each other and everything else will fall into place. It’s a simple blueprint.

No pumps. No diesel engines. No lawsuits. No bullshit. Just build the best waves possible.

Please watch these short videos explaining the basic mechanisms behind the Fountain of Life to understand how this tech works and then I hope you give it a shot and start building your own version of this tech. There are so many iterations that can be created from this tech. It is almost limitless.

Please review the provisional patent (PDF) for a more in-depth explanation of the tech.

The Fountain of Life is Flow & Spin. To strip it to its core the science of waves is Flow & Spin. The Fountain of Life is simple, it is the convergence of opposing fluid forces, H2O, in a pool with real time complete telemetry manipulation.

The Fountain of Life is born of the atom not the sea. Flowing. Spinning. Perfectly.

Aloha
Elijah Mack

The Provisional patent: The Fountain of Life

Videos about The Fountain of Life

The post The Perfect Path – The Quest for the Fountain of Life appeared first on Riverbreak.

Although these waves play an invaluable role in shaping culture and are the apex of high-performance surfing, their often fickle nature and remote locales lack the consistency a surf community needs to establish and grow. My experience building surf waves and surfing river waves all over has lead me to this conclusion – consistency builds surf communities. When you have both consistency and quality it’s pure magic, think Eisbach or Boise.

Case in point, look at Boise, Idaho where they can surf year-round. This consistency combined with the quality wave produced by their WaveShaper has fostered an establish surf community including custom board builders like Chris Peterson and a surf shop (Corridor Surf) 500 miles from the coast.

When you have both consistency and quality it’s pure magic, think Eisbach or Boise.

As someone who believes building more surf waves is the future of river surfing, I want successfully built waves in as many places as possible. The reality is that most cities and towns have what I call a “Goldie Locks problem” – this river is too big, this one is too small, and this one is just right. The “just right” rivers are few and far between. Although we have built waves is some very large rivers, they are very expensive and even more challenging than waves in smaller river. For this reason, I have been keenly interested in pushing the limits of building smaller more consistent waves that are also high performance while being more economical to build.

6 years ago, as a surfer in the once small fragmented surf community in Denver where there are very few waves of decent quality and consistency, a golden opportunity arose when local river advocates asked us to transform a degraded stretch of the South Platte into a healthy river with vibrant recreation. Of course, we decided immediately that a surf wave needed to happen. One huge problem – there is very little water (typically 200 cfs or less). We had been planning and designing for several years.

What was maybe two dozen strong before the wave build is now hundreds of surfers and growing.

When I visited Salzburg, Austria in 2014, I saw firsthand the amazing community and level of surfing at the small Alm Canal Wave. It was living proof that this was possible but I was somewhat skeptical it would work as well in a river with varying flows and conditions. We still had some serious challenges to work out. In the end we were able to design a WaveShaper adjustable wave to get the quality and consistency we were aiming for. After two full seasons it is truly incredible how both the size and diversity of the surf community has flourished. What was maybe two dozen strong before the wave build is now hundreds of surfers and growing.

Low flow waves maybe great but you may ask “so what?” The significance, to me, is there are far more places that waves are possible than we all previously thought. More rivers, more waves, more surfing, more fun. Unlocking low flow waves will help cure the Goldie Locks problem. Yes we will continue to see waves built in big and medium sized rivers but I have a feeling we will see even more in small rivers. Watch out for bears Goldie Locks and go surf a river!

By Ben Nielsen, P.E. McLaughlin Whitewater Design Group

The post Consistency Builds Surf Communities appeared first on Riverbreak.

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The post Innovative Wave Technology – Applicable in Rivers? appeared first on Riverbreak.

We are absolutely stoked about River Surf Systems challenging the limits in wave building! Tell us something about your background Tanner.

Great to hear from you guys and thanks for spreading the stoke. I’m excited to get my info out there. My quick background is 30 years ocean surfing and three years of wake surfing. I’ve also have 25 years in commercial construction, seven of those as a construction project manager and a Certified Project Management Professional (PMP). Three years of physics in college.

What is your relation to the ocean or rivers surfing community?

I am an ocean surfer with a strong desire to be a river surfer. 2ndlight.com is my local forum for news, photos and stoke. But living in Orlando, I can’t claim to have a real surf community.

River surfers have been dreaming of a barreling river wave since forever. How could River Surf Systems make this dream come true?

Through exhaustive prototyping and experimentation, we are improving the formula for the most economical and feature-rich river waves possible. Barrels are not the end game. A static perfect barrel is an amazing step forward, but variety is the spice of life. These river waves also need variations if they are going to be compared to ocean waves. I have surfed so many perfect ocean waves that I want to bring to river surfing.

Where does your idea to build a barreling river wave come from?

For me this was not a quest to make a barreling river wave specifically. My overreaching goal is a more economical man-made surfing experience whose waves are on par with good ocean waves. I found that river surfing has a distinct advantage over wave pools. No pumps or machinery are needed to move the water. This is a large cost savings over traditional wave pools. The never-ending aspect is a nice bonus too.

Showcasing the many waves the Reef Pass system is capable of is a critical step to gathering support, especially the barrel. Barrels mesmerize people. Including me. I am elated that you guys like the look of the barrel and have given me this opportunity to speak about it.

How does your wave design differ from other wave designs? What are the components that your design is built on and how are they related?

I think current river surfing wave designs take inspiration from their environment. They mimic existing natural river waves and improve on them. I am approaching from a different point of view. I’m asking myself how can we make river waves shaped as good as any ocean wave.

My goal in prototyping was to make waves that looked like ocean waves.

Almost all man-made river waves use a bedform that is perpendicular to the flow. As such the wave is perpendicular to the river and mostly uniform from left to right. Some are hydraulic jumps and many are thick sheet flows.

The Reef Pass system has a deep channel on one side and a shallow curving sand bar on the other. It relies solely on the hydraulic jump phenomenon. On the deeper side of the channel the hydraulic jump is subcritical and a mounded clean green face. On the shallow side the hydraulic jump is a supercritical foamy whitewater. Where the two meet is the lip of the wave. Just like an ocean wave pealing down a point break.

What factors are responsible for the wave to barrel? What is the bottom contour like?

The bottom contour is modeled after a reef pass ocean surfing wave. Reef passes are some of the best ocean surfing waves out there.

To create the barrel, a hydraulic jump is controlled and caused to happen in the appropriate place on the Reef Pass bedform and roughly aligns with where a wave would break on a reef pass in real life. In more scientific terms, I am causing a hydraulic jump to simultaneously have all of its incremental depths (phases) and causing it to happen at an angle to the flow. The end result is a vortex known as a barrel to surfers.

How high will the wave be when you scale it up to full size? Can the wave be designed in different dimensions (small to overhead)?

The bottom contour is modeled after a reef pass ocean surfing wave. Reef passes are some of the best ocean surfing waves out there.

Wave size is completely dependent on flow. I am targeting a location that has excess of 4,000 CFS for at least a week out of the year. This will give us a 5 to 6 ft barreling wave at prime season.

River discharges often vary, usually depending on rainfall, dam releases, seasons, or other factors. How can this type of construction deal with changing river flows?

Dealing with variable flow rates and maintaining a surfable wave is a tough technical challenge. Luckily the answer is in the Reef Pass bed form. Some ocean reef passes break for a wide variety of wave sizes. A great example of this is Cloud Break. This world renowned south pacific reef break can be surfed from 2 ft to 20ft.

My prototype shows similar characteristics. At full flow it’s a nice five foot barrel. At half flow it’s a knee-high peeling long boarders wave. At ten percent flow it’s a young beginners long board lump.

So, this is actually an adjustable river wave?

Yes, the wave can be adjusted by manipulating the water flow. Using gates upstream and downstream can change the depth, speed, and direction of the flow, aka vectoring the flow. Depth and speed can control the hydraulic jump. Flow direction changes the angle of incident with the bedform thereby changing the slope the flow passes over.

Deeper, slower water gives softer waves. Faster, thinner water gives us square barrels. A good balance is needed. Synchronising these gates creates smoothly morphing waves of great variety.

A barrel can come to a close and give a tube spit. A racetrack wave can have a lip section for blasting airs or floaters. One moment the wave can be the deepest heavy square tube the next it can be a large soft mounded party wave with 5 SUPs hanging out and passing beers around. All while the river flow provided hasn’t changed.

What do you think will be the challenges when scaling up your model from the lab to the real world?

I think the biggest challenges for me are funding, permits, and living in Orlando. I would like to be involved in the construction process, but that’s hard to do from a thousand miles away.

Depending on the flow the surfing maneuvers would be large and world class.

You may have been asking that question from the point of view of technical wave challenges. With proper prototyping and accurate flow information, I don’t foresee any problems. My work on remodeling theme park rides and hospitals has given me a lot of experience overcoming technical challenges in fast paced sensitive environments.

What are the minimum flow requirements (cfs), drop etc. for your wave to work?

The Reef Pass system wasn’t designed to compete with existing low flow waves. If it is to make a barrel that can be squeezed into, it probably needs about 3,500 cfs. But more experimentation is needed to firm up that estimate.

Have you heard about the prototypes by McLaughlin and fresH20? What similarities or differences compared to your approach do you see?

I talked to Ben about his and Elijah’s wave, and mine, but we didn’t get into specifics of how each design works. We mostly ponder on why the ocean surf community doesn’t see what we see as an opportunity. We also talked about basic parameters of construction and flow. I don’t know the specifics of their wave. Their wave is a hydraulic jump and a barrel.

My goal in prototyping was to make waves that looked like ocean waves. I am happy with the way my waves look. They resemble ocean barrels and lines I want to surf.

Do you think the tube will be big enough for a surfer to actually hide behind the curtain?

A resounding yes … given we can build it at a location with enough flow.

What would be the main difference for a ocean surfer? What kind of maneuvers you think would be possible?

Compared to ocean surfing the main difference is ride time. Most ocean surfing happens 5 seconds at a time and then your ride is over and you’re looking for another wave. River surfing is near perpetual with respect to water flow. As long as the water is flowing, the wave is standing tall and steady. I anticipate the same maneuvers you see in ocean surfing will immediately adapt. Within a season or two, the groms will likely surprise us with never before seen maneuvers. It’s just what kids do.

How much would such a wave cost?

There are so many variables. The variable I am most interested in is how much flow is it being designed for? More flow means bigger waves, bigger overall installation and higher cost.

A nice steep racetrack wave with a lip would allow for more maneuvers than Eisbach currently does.

If this were to be installed at Riverports Rapids in Oklahoma it could be done for as little as $50k. Most of the whitewater kayak parks already have the infrastructure, especially the pumped ones. This would give us a wave similar in size to Eisbach in Germany, but with better shape. With this small of a water flow the barrel would be too small to squeeze into, but a nice steep racetrack wave with a lip would allow for more maneuvers than Eisbach currently does. This would be a great proving ground for the Reef Pass system.

If this were to be installed at the Ruins Wave in Ottawa I expect it would be closer to $5 million but would give us a stand-up, arms wide barrel. This is the dream. With this much flow the surfing maneuvers would be large and world class.

What other services do you offer? Wave design, feasibility studies, permitting, safety … ?

We excel at wave design and prototyping. We are pretty good at engineering, hydro physics, feasibility studies as it pertains to available flow, and construction project management. I believe Surf Anywhere and McLaughlin Whitewater would be better resources for Permitting, Construction Resourcing, Safety, and many of the other tasks needed to undertake and complete a project like this. Experienced teammates are an important resource.

When will we see this wave being built in an actual river? Any time soon?

I’m busting my ass to make it so. Any advice, help, or connections are appreciated.

Every river surfer dreams of a barreling wave in his backyard. How can people get in touch with you?

Send an email to Tanner@RiverSurfSystems.com

For more details on the prototype and technology please visit my website: RiverSurfSystems.com

Thanks so much for your time Tanner and keep the stoke alive!

Thank you too – really happy to talk surf with you!

The post River Surf Systems: River Waves Shaped As Good As The Best Ocean Waves appeared first on Riverbreak.

Wave designers from Austria, Germany and the US have teamed up with the goal to create one of the best river waves in Europe. The project site is located at the river Traun, in the beautiful Salzkammergut region in Austria. The location at the Miesenbachmühle in Ebensee was chosen due to the stable annual discharge levels and the natural drop, which makes this spot the ideal location for a river wave that can be surfed year round.

The Concept Behind THE WAVE

To maximise the number of surf days, THE WAVE will be installed in a separate canal, running parallel to the river: A portion of the river Traun will be channeled through an artificial canal in which the wave structure will be placed. This approach allows the engineers to design and build the wave under controlled and stable conditions. While operating the wave, the canal approach will allow wave operators to adjust the flow to different discharge levels in the main river Traun and create wave shapes for different kinds of surf styles.

THE WAVE’s mission is to make the stoke of surfing accessible to a landlocked community.

The canal concept has been proposed and discussed a number of times (e.g. at the River Wave Forums), but this is probably the first time it will be implemented. The approach is also promising for other communities, since discharge levels of most rivers vary significantly throughout the year, depending on precipitation, temperature and the time of the year (e.g. higher winter/spring runoffs).

Working Prototype

In wave construction prototype testing is one of the most rewarding phases. Developing a prototype of a river wave allows the team to bring the wave to life for the first time, test the wave in action and identify opportunities for improvement and fine-tuning. Wave prototyping gives the project team the opportunity to gather feedback and make changes that will eventually maximise the surfability of the wave.

The results can be seen for themselves, with the 1:8 scale model of THE WAVE looking pretty damn good. Will this canal approach be a game-changer in wave building? Check out the videos and photos below and find out yourself!

Videos From The Prototype Site

This is what THE WAVE prototype looks like at the lowest expected flow level:

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A post shared by Benjamin Di-Qual (@killahaase) on Nov 11, 2017 at 7:16am PST

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Experimenting with different wave shapes:

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A post shared by @nu.art_surfstuff on Nov 8, 2017 at 6:36am PST

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Steep face setting:

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More Impressions

Make It Happen!

Impressive work on the prototype testing, let’s make this happen! Can’t wait to see THE WAVE operating in full size, best of luck with the next steps!

The post THE WAVE: Prototyping A World Class River Wave appeared first on Riverbreak.

There will be a river surfing information session at the shop before a film screening. Neil from Surf Anywhere will be coming by to discuss river surfing and the options surfers have here in Southern Ontario. He will also talk about how they are spreading the stoke by building river waves in Alberta, Oregon and abroad. And to complete the night, there will be a double premerie from Down Under in the surf city: The Church of the Open Sky and Grimey Times will be on the screen this evening. Come out, have a drink, mingle with an awesome group of people and and learn more about the future of surfing!

Contest Winner Announcement

Also, the winners of the River Surfing Photo Contest 2017 will be announced tonight. Amazing prizes sponsored by Surf The Greats, Catch Surf and Riverbreak are waiting for the winners!

Tickets

This event will sell out, so get your tickets right away before they are gone.

Location

Surf The Greats
276 Carlaw Avenue
Toronto, Ontario
www.surfthegreats.org

The post River Surfing Information Session and Film Screening appeared first on Riverbreak.

Friday, October 6

Starting at 7:00pm (no registration required)
Meet and Greet: Meet and surf with river surfers from across North America

Saturday, October 7

8:00am–8:30am
Morning registration

8:30am–9:00am
Jacob Kelly: event introduction

9:00am–10:00am
Neil Egsgard: step by step timeline for wave builds

10:00am–10:30am – Via Skype (Austria)
Maximilian Neuböck: stakeholder management, overall wave build approaches

10:30am–11:00am
Jeffrey Banks: fundraising for surf waves

11:00am–11:30am
Ben Nielsen: finding the best sites and conditions for successful wave projects

11:30am–noon
Questions and answers

Noon–1:00pm
Lunch

1:00pm–1:20pm
Alex Copp: experiences in growing surf communities and starting a surf shop

1:20pm–1:40pm
KB Brown: experiences in shaping river surfboards and young surfers

1:40pm–2:00pm
Discussions: in groups

2:00pm–2:20pm
Loren Kaehn: registering a non-profit surf association

2:20pm–2:40pm
Tyler Kraushar: fundraising strategies for small groups

2:40pm–3:00pm
Discussion: in groups

4:00pm–4:30pm
Ryan Richard: whitewater park evolution, adjustable waves, relationships with cities and businesses

4:30pm–4:45pm
Ben Nielsen: engineer’s point of view with working with cities

4:45pm–5:00pm
Neil Egsgard: presentation of a communication framework

5:00pm–5:20pm
Questions and answers

6:00pm–9:00pm
Evening social, river surf discussions, mingling, beers

Sunday, October 8

Sunday Funday (no registration required)
Meet and surf with river surfers from across North America

Location

Bend, Oregon

Ticket Options

Wave Building Workshop ($115)
8:00am – 1:00pm: includes the rest of the day – no other registration is required to attend later events

Community Building Afternoon ($60)
1:00pm – 6:00pm: includes the evening but no access to the morning -no other registration is required to attend the social

Evening Social ($20)
6:00pm – 9:00pm: includes evening only, no access to morning or afternoon

As part of the summit a Meet & Greet will take place the Friday evening before at the wave as well as a Sunday Funday surf but registration is not required.

If you want to join the Summit it is not too late to purchase your ticket at eventbrite.com

The post 2017 River Surf Summit: Program and Schedule appeared first on Riverbreak.