Design, Volume and Shape

When choosing a surfboard for the river the most important thing to think about is design. Would you rather surf a board shaped for the ocean or a board specifically shaped for a river? Don’t get me wrong an ocean board could do the trick just fine. I surfed on them for years. But nothing will beat a board shaped specifically for the river.

Volume is the next thing you want to think about. Volume of a board is really important because it is a board floatation. Most river waves are pretty mushy and a higher volume board will surf better and ride more waves than a lower volume board. A lighter construction and overall weight can help add to the volume of a board.

Nothing beats a board shaped specifically for the river.

Shape of the board is equally important. A lot of river waves will require a shorter board with proper nose and tail rocker to fit into the wave and surf well. From my personal experience a nose rocker should be anywhere from 3”-3.5” and a tail rocker from 1”-1.5”. You are also going to want to look for a little wider tail. A board with a wider tail is going to allow for more push while on the wave. Which means on a smaller and softer wave, your board will stay on the wave better.

One Board Quiver?

Would you rather surf a board shaped for the ocean?

A lot of people are looking for the answer for the one board quiver. There are really not many boards out there that will meet all these specifications and surf pretty much any wave you will encounter. The Badfish Sk8 is one of the few boards that I have found to be a perfect answer to the one quiver board. I ride the 5’ which is a whopping 48.5 liters. It has perfect tail and nose rocker. I know that it will surf the powerful high performance waves (like River Run Park, Boise and Bend), it will surf the mushier waves that require the higher volume (like Glenwood Surfer Left and other local small waves) and it will definitely surf big waves (Glenwood Surfer Right, Pipeline and Lunch Counter)

So I go back to the question everyone river surfer should ask themselves … Would you rather surf a board shaped for the ocean? Or, something shaped specifically for the river? Something that will perform well no matter what wave you end up at? It’s a no brainer!

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The post How to Choose a River Surfboard appeared first on Riverbreak.

Chris, you have long been pioneering the river surfing scene in Idaho and beyond. How did you get into river surfing, tell us a bit about your story.

I moved to Hawaii in 1987 when I was 15 years old and I met a lot of the top guys in the local crowd. I went to Wailua high school for a few years and just like the guys do now, we would wait for the big pond behind the shore break at Waimea Bay to fill up, dig it out and surf the huge river waves it would make for about an hour or two. When I first moved Idaho it was to take care of my grandmother, so I had to leave ocean surfing behind. When she passed away, I found myself lost and thinking of moving back to the ocean and I told my friend Ronny that I needed to surf. He knew about river surfing from back in the day, so he sent me a surfboard wrapped in a wetsuit regular postage with glass-on fins and that’s where it started for me in Idaho in 2010.

What led you to become a shaper and where did you learn how to shape surfboards?

Shaping is an art and there’s no room for mistakes.

The first board I shaped was in Hawaii when I was 17 with my neighbor who was a well-known shaper of the time, so I’ve always known a lot about surfboards but riding them was always my passion. I’ve ridden thousands of surfboards broken 104 last I kept count. I was always sponsored by a board company or local shaper up to this point so I had no desire to shape. I wanted to win competitions but I’m older now and times have changed. The last surfboard I bought said was made in China. As a former semi pro that disgusted me so I decided to make my own boards, because there was nothing else out there in the United States. I’ve had quite a few people copying me up to this point which is very flattering but shaping is an art and there’s no room for mistakes. I’ve done a lot of R&D and know what it takes to make that magic river board.

Chris “Crash” Peterson out in the river

What inspires you when you develop new shapes or designs? Where do you get ideas for new design concepts?

I’ve come to find out that the river and the ocean have a lot in common. Although both have their specific characteristic you can still ride a traditional surfboard at both ocean and river. Each wave in the river and in the ocean has a different quality, steepness, speed and texture, so every board has its purposes just like the ocean waves.

What is your shaping philosophy?

My shaping philosophy was always to build a community that has not existed because I felt like a fish out of the water and it seems to have taken off more than I thought it would. The philosophy remains the same as in ocean surfing even though we’re stuck miles inland. The unique, spiritual connection to the water remains the same … and there’s no sharks in rivers.

Would you agree that good surfboard designs are born from experience of surfing and building boards? Is that why river surfers love your boards?

Yeah, I have a lifetime experience of surfing and working with shapers of so many different board designs that it gave me the knowledge to design the perfect board for each wave. I’ve definitely had some help along the way with surfers who helped me find tune the craft they want to ride.

Peterson boards come in different shapes, sizes and artworks

Let’s talk about shaping technology … machine shaping has become increasingly popular these days. What do you prefer?

Machine shaping is a funny thing, the machine can only be used with years of shaping knowledge because you would still have to come up with designs that were proven and you know would work. So when you scan the board or punch the dimensions in the computer you must know what you’re going to get. Shaping isn’t as simple as it looks sometimes. I have no problem using a computer shape if needed. I haven’t been busy enough yet to justify it, but maybe one day. I have some proven designs now and it seems like river surfing is here to stay, so maybe I’ll use it one day. Right now it’s all by hand.

What parts of the board design are most important in determining the performance of a river surfboard?

I like to watch people ride my boards and seeing the stoke.

Actually everything is super critical the rocker, fin set up, bottom contour, rail design, outline, length, thickness. And of course what wave you’re going to ride it on.

What materials do you use? What role does sustainability play for you as a local shaper?

A lot of people are highly allergic to a lot of the surfboard chemicals. I don’t use polyurethane it’s very toxic, smells bad and it’s more brittle. I use traditional surfboard blanks with the stringer for durability. I use very strong glass that is still flexible so the board doesn’t feel like a brick and high-quality epoxy resin for it’s lightweight and durability.

In the shaping room …

For many river surfers durable and resistant boards are key. How resistant are your boards and what do you do to increase their durability, such as reinforcing rails with kevlar or carbon for example?

I offer a lot of durable materials but over time people tend to stick to traditional surfboard weight and feel. Today, there are so many different surfboard materials out there but through my research everyone still prefers the traditional feeling. However, I do offer tougher materials such as carbon for example, if people want it.

How do your boards differ from other boards, what makes Peterson boards so unique? What defines your style of board that you are known for?

Working with local shapers has always been better because we know where you’re going to surf.

There is only a handful of guys out there that build boards from start to finish like I do and I have a artistic background in painting and airbrushing so I’m able to integrate a lot of art into my surfboards that otherwise would add too much time to the process. And having a lifetime of surfing experience lets me identify little changes and tweaks that would take another shaper who doesn’t surf a lot much longer to work through.

How would you describe the “ultimate river surfboard”?

Just like in ocean surfing there really is no ultimate surfboard but you can come very close to it, depending where you live and what waves are your are going to be riding. That’s why, throughout history, working with local shapers has always been better because we know where you’re going to surf and sometimes we’re going to surf with you.

What advice would you give river surfers to find the perfect board?

In the beginning I would suggest you look for something that you know that work. Maybe what you see other people riding, something that fits your style. Don’t worry too much about beating it up, the first surfboard always takes a beating. Over time you learn to take care of your boards better. It’s better to get a really good board in the beginning, so you will learn faster but if all you can afford is a junker, get what you can and get started!

Getting some air time on a Peterson board in Boise

For what level of surfers are your boards suitable and why?

I’ve learned that for a lot of people who want to get into river surf it’s better to get a performance board right at the beginning. People learn quick – it’s better if you don’t have to upgrade right away.

Which ones of your shapes are the most popular right now? What are you customers’ favourite boards?

My most popular board is a 5’0 squash tail that looks like an ocean board. I worked on this shape together with Adam, an ocean surfer who turned into a river surfer. We worked hard on this design and it’s the magic all around river surfboard I think.

What is the ideal river surfboard fin setup in your opinion? Any preferences for Futures or FCS?

Yeah, a thruster set up with a smaller center fin is ideal. I have no preference on fin boxes, though a lot of people get FCS because they usually have an old box of fins laying around. I do like Futures though, they look cleaner.

What is the most challenging thing about being a shaper?

Shaping is very time-consuming and it doesn’t leave much time for other things.

Definitely the time. Shaping is very time-consuming and it doesn’t leave much time for other things like another job to pick up the slack. There’s not very much money in this business and surfboard materials are expensive. They look cool and they’re fun to ride but board builders generally don’t make much money.

What do you find most rewarding about shaping surfboards?

I like to ride them and I like to watch people ride my boards and seeing the stoke. Their lives change and they become surfers when they feel that energy.

What can we expect to see from you in the future?

I’m getting older and I have a bad back, but I still try to surf as much as I can. Right now, I’m really focused on board design and building a community.

Can we find your boards in a shop, or where can they be ordered? Can we get our hands on a Peterson surfboard outside the states?

We don’t have many surf shops in the mountains, so I mostly rely on word-of-mouth and my website freshwatersouls.com. I’ll ship my surfboards anywhere in the world – FedEx is cheap.

Where do you see river surfing in 5-10 years from now?

I didn’t know things were going to go this far this quickly. So many wave pools being built, stationary waves and waves mimicking the ocean and all that. I think it’s one of those things where you just have to wait and see if a lot of these projects really happen. And if they do, yeah, things will change a lot, more waves are always better!

Anything else you want to pass on to our readers?

Yeah, the river surf community is a very cool crowd, it’s like skateboarding and surfing combined. No bad vibes, people are stoked when you get a good ride so don’t be afraid to come on down and give it a try, we’ll definitely help you out!

Contact

Use discount code RIVERBREAK for 10% off a hand-made Peterson Surfboard!

Website: freshwatersouls.com
Email: petersonboards@gmail.com
Social: facebook.com/petersonboards | instagram.com/freshwatersoul

The post Shaper Talk with Chris Peterson: Boards Made in Boise appeared first on Riverbreak.

KB, What led you to become a shaper?

I really believe I was born to shape surfboards. It’s a calling. I see the boards finished before starting. Being an athlete that desires progression, life time in board sports plus my knowledge of river wave / river dynamics really inspired me to start. Looking back though I could feel it my entire life.

What is the shaping philosophy at Strongwater?

Leave it in the hands of the surfers.

What is it like being one of the few river surfboard shapers in the industry?

It’s sweet I have zero creative boundaries or influences. I have no idols or anything whom I’m trying to be or create. I can just create boards that work.

More and more rivers surfers are riding Strongwater surfboards. Why do your boards appeal to river surfers so much?

Strongwater Surfboards connect to surfers. Yes we started in the river but we connect to ocean surfers also. The boards start with me and for me it’s all about surfing and respect for the people and water, only reason I’m doing this period. So if you surf that is respectable and you relate to it, doesn’t matter where you surf. The design also is appealing, makes sense, simple but has lots of style. It’s been really cool to see the attention it has received here in the ocean. Just good timing with the way ocean surfing is progressing also with wave riding styles, airs and thinking outside the box.

You have been surfing and shaping in Cali all winter and learning from the industry’s best. Tell us something about your time in Cali, and why Cali?

Weather, Women and the Weed like Biggie said … No JK. I came to Cali because of progression and desire to take Strongwater Surfboards to a new level. I’m in the heart of surf industry and there is so much history here. Even though I’m doing my thing, I have ton of respect for surfing and its history. Many legends have been through the factory creating at one time. The dudes I’m working with have made a life of it, so I learn and feel inspired just being in the factory. The energy and being here progressing my craft, it’s perfect. It all starts with respect whether you are in the water or shaping bay. Thankful. Honestly I didn’t try to come here either, it just happened. Thats the cool stuff about Strongwater it’s real, it’s my life and not something I’m trying to do. It’s in my soul the universe literally called me here and I’m pretty sure I lived here in a past life.

How does the Cali series RUNT differ from the other RUNT models?

The Cali Runts come in 4 sizes. They are still hand made. However, instead of me shaping each board start to finish like in Montana, the boards are ruff cut by a CNC machine. I then finish shape the boards and pass them off to some of the best glassers and sanders in the world.

What makes the Cali RUNT the perfect river surfboard?

The design of the board makes it perfect. It performs on so many different wave types. The characteristics of the board also translate to all skill levels. If you rip and want to do big airs it does that. If you are learning and need stability it has that. The thing is trippy – slashes or toes on the nose it does it all.

The Cali RUNT river surfboard

What level of surfer would go for a Cali RUNT and why?

All levels … no joke!

What type of fin setup do you recommend with the Cali RUNT?

We put 5 fin boxes on the Runt so all options are available. For most river waves we ride thruster with a thumb drive as trailer fin. You get good speed plus balanced feel with that set-up. But really it comes down to the surfers, ability, style and wave.

Is the Cali RUNT a limited series?

No, Strongwater Surfboards all ship from Southern California now. This is where Surfboards come from. Getting started in Montana was awesome but this is the heart of surfing and were called here.

Spring is just around the corner and people will refresh their quiver for this season. How can the Cali RUNT be ordered?

Strongwater.surf or KB.strongwater@gmail.com

How can river surfers in Europe get their Cali RUNT?

Email KB.strongwater@gmail.com

What sizes and colours are available for the Cali RUNT?

Factory board models are clean and clear with black logos. Boards come in 4 sizes: 5’0 – 5’4 – 5’8 – 6’0 all the tech specs are available at Strongwater.surf. We can also custom build any size, color, materials or graphics.

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