First, as a pioneer, he has spread and united the fragmented communities in the early development of river surfing. Second, he has thought out the ultimate of effective technologies in developing the”Perfect Wave” form within moving water.

Through the history of surfing, there have been key impacts on the progress of surfing made by genius pioneers: those who originally brought surfing from Hawaii and spread it across the world, and those who have developed the new technologies that have exponentially raised the quality of the surfing experience. Elijah has stepped forth as a most recent of these genius pioneers who has done BOTH!

He thought out how the vectors could shape water into that “Perfect Wave”.

When I look back on my own life as a surfer, which spans over 60 years, I remember had the fortune of witnessing some of these impacts. We all know that surfing originated in Hawaii and how Duke Kahanamoku and George Freeth brought it to California where it expanded in popularity along the coast and later worldwide via Australia, France, South Africa, and beyond. However, to experience surfing, one had to go to the coastline, where the ocean provided the crucial element: the waves!

In my youth, the popularity of surfing had become a high-powered culture on the coast. It even had established its own music genre, which influenced the way I play my electric guitar. Then, in about 1967, a neighbor called me and my surfing friends over to his back yard. Strewn on the lawn were these strange “space machine” surf vehicles that were half the length of a regular surfboard of the time (now called “longboard”) and sported huge foiled, flexible fins and v-bottom hull designs. There, I met George Greenough, the pioneer genius who had invented these designs through the Physics concepts behind the vectors of velocity, acceleration, and force. And there, I also met Bob McTavish, an Australian “test pilot” who had incorporated these revolutionary concepts into the “space machine” surfboards I saw. That evening, I got to see the result at Rincon Point, as both of these pioneers tore across the huge walls of water at unseen velocity, accelerating into 180 degree turns and flying within and over liquid barrels with never-before-seen power!

Elijah extensively explored and worked to bring these emerging communities together into a new worldwide culture.

From that moment, I understood what was happening, and within a week, had built a surfboard of my own, which changed the way I surfed forever! From those days in the 60′s, surfing has expanded exponentially along the coasts of all the continents of the Earth. But, hidden elsewhere, far from the oceans and coastlines, were places where phenomena of moving water in rivers produced surfable waves of their own.

And like the Duke and George Freeth, I witnessed another such pioneer, Elijah Mack, who travelled to these hidden places to discover these inland waves, and connected with the emerging surfing communities that had begun the spread of surfing inland … Places like Munich, Switzerland, the Pacific Northwest, and the Canadian Rockies. Like his predecessors, Elijah extensively explored and worked to bring these emerging communities together into a new worldwide culture. Thus, River Surfing was born!

But that was not all. Elijah had that rare inner mind that could envision the Physics vectors behind the all that made river surfing possible. While Greenough and McTavish had developed the watercraft designs that harnessed the vectors of velocity, acceleration, and force, Elijah Mack’s mind delved into the vectors that created the surfing waves themselves from that unique chemical that covers our planet: WATER!

Elijah’s words are complex, but read them carefully.

He thought out how the vectors could shape water into that “Perfect Wave”! Now, through his designs, it has become possible to create a perfect surfing wave anywhere. So, in his articles that follow this introduction of mine, Elijah releases to all, the “secrets” of his inventive technology, so that it will be possible for surfing to spread to ANYONE, ANYWHERE!

Elijah’s words are complex, but read them carefully. For within his article is the incredibly simple and fundamental “magic formula” for anyone with the inspiration to bring it all to reality, just like I witnessed in ocean surfing 50 years ago.

The post David Allan about Elijah Mack: The man behind the Perfect Wave appeared first on Riverbreak.

The surfers present were to not only be taking part in exhibiting their surfing, but also in working as a team of surf brothers in fellowship in electing the prize winning performances of the day. The first priority for being here was to surf together in brotherhood and appreciate what each of us could contribute, proudly showing practice of the Aloha Spirit. That was, by far, the most valuable concept for us as river surfers. The chance that some of us will be awarded cash prizes was to be “the icing on the cake”.

The loudest and most jubilant cheer went to Derek Rabelo, who is blind.

As we waited for the go-ahead to commence surfing, the contestants met with me and we agreed on the details of our peer-judging system. Five of the contestants, following the Aloha Spirit, offered to abstain from the competition to form a judging panel. The other contestants showed their agreement and appreciation as they lined up to take their turns on the wave. Time was very limited, because the SUP event required extra final tie-breaking rounds, so, sensing the mandate for efficiency, the contestants jumped into wave-after-wave, at rapid intervals. The event looked like a well-oiled surfing machine. By making good use of the limited time, each of the contestants managed to surf four rounds on the wave (more than we expected). The judges rated each wave for best carving turn, best reversal/360, best aerial, and best overall. As it turned out, the contest appeared to be more of a stoked “jam session”, rather than a serious competitive. Fellow surfers hooted and cheered each other (even the wildest wipeouts!).

No Worries About Prizes, Just Aloha!

The loudest and most jubilant cheer went to Derek Rabelo, who is blind, but still surfs through his amazing combination of determination, courage, faith, and sharpness of his other senses. Derek has certainly become a true inspiration to all the rest of us. When both the Men’s and Women’s Divisions were culminated, the judges marked their highest scores, and compared their individual votes to arrive at a consensus. Agreement on the winners seemed to be universal, as the judges announced their selections to the crowd of contestants, who responded with smiles. It was obvious to all that the winning performances were well deserved. For the Men, Chris Martindale of Idaho “cleaned house” with the Best Overall, including carving turns and some airs. Cam Fuller, who hails from Montana, won his prize for a breathtaking reversal/sideslip, ending in a near-360. For the Women, the star was Anna Fischer, of Colorado, who garnered Best Overall, including some impressive carves. It is of note that the prizes to be awarded in equality between the men and women.

Surfers got to surf for the sheer enjoyment of it all … no worries about prizes … just aloha.

Following the Elite Division of the surfing event, described above, in which performance was judged and the prizes were awarded, there was the Open “Fun” Division, which was an expression-session, in which surfers got to surf for the sheer enjoyment of it all … no worries about prizes … just aloha! In this division, we each took a couple of waves to enjoy and entertain the crowd of thousands, who lined the riverbanks.

Finally, it all ended with smiles and “high-fives”, and some words of thanks. As the “Captain” of this undertaking in the Payette River Games, I was pleasantly surprised at how many of the contestants approached me to express their appreciation. Every one of them exclaimed at how much fun they had. To them, the event was really a delightful “sesh” of “bro’s” surfing together. As we all dispersed, and a dark mountain thunderstorm rumbled over the summits of West Mountain, it became clear that the Aloha Spirit was indeed shining, even above the impending clouds!

The post A Stoked Jam Session: David’s Perspective on the 2015 PRGs appeared first on Riverbreak.

Led by Cascade’s very own David Allan, who has surfed more on Kelly’s Wave than anyone, the PRGs welcome surfers to compete in their second river surfing competition.

For all landlocked surfers you will find a big glassy wave at Kelly’s in a town reminiscent of an old American Western movie. Picture a pristine and warm river (70-75 degrees) meandering through the town of Cascade, Idaho adjacent to green pasture land in the foreground surrounded by rugged snow capped mountains.

New Competition Format

All river surfing athletes will vote for the other athletes and the winner will be the one with the most athlete votes. There will be no other judges and we invite an aloha spirit to the games. There will be 2 competitions, an elite and also an open division for the less experienced surfer.

Elite Division

If you think you’ve got the skills to compete with some of the world’s best river surfers, challenge yourself with the Payette River Games Elite River Surfing competition. With $4,000 total prize purse (split evenly for men and women – see the full break down below), this should be one of the most entertaining events of the weekend for spectators and competitors alike.

Fun Division

If you’re more of a beginner but just want to get your feet wet and try surfing the river wave at Kelly’s, jump in to the novice division. This is for surfers who are confident about entering the wave and getting to their feet but perhaps aren’t ready for a 360 air just yet. Come one come all. Give it a try. The PRGs got plenty of fun prizes to give away!

Race for a Good Cause

100% of your entry payments go directly to the PRG’s non-profit host – Kelly’s Whitewater Park. Every dollar you spend will help the park remain open and free for everyone, including our special free kids clinics. So join this event for the funniest weekend on the competition calendar and support a great cause at the same time!

Prize Money and Categories

Register Now

The Payette River Games (PRGs) is a special weekend and we can’t wait to see the river surfing action. But that’s not all … Whether you’re a spectator or a competitor (or both!), come and witness the amazing Whitewater Stand Up Paddling, Beach Volleyball, Dog Fetch, Lumberjack Tournament, Beach Flags and much more. Join the games from June 19-21 in the beautiful haven of Cascade, Idaho for an event you won’t forget.

Register at: http://www.payetterivergames.com/register/

We look forward to seeing you at the 2015 PRG’s in Cascade!

If you’re a Riverbreak reader and you’re here on the grounds today please remember to tag your photos with #PRG15 and #riverbreak.

The post 2015 Payette River Games: River Surfing appeared first on Riverbreak.

David has come from a seafaring family. His father and brothers had raced sailboats, winning races such as the Transpac (to Hawaii), the Olympics (Snipe Class boats), America’s Cup, etc. Though David also raced sailboats too, he went his own way in early life. At around 5-6 years old, he rode waves on anything he could find, pieces of wood etc., and became an avid fisherman, when his crippled uncle taught him the secret of fishing…”patience”. He would stand up on these items, as he was a small kid. At around 7 years old, in 1957, he got his first surfboard, an old beat-up Hobie, and was introduced to “Killer Dana”, a historic point/reef break near Hobie Alter’s surfboard shop. On his first try, he stood up, and rode all the way in. That was it! He was hooked for life! Of dubious distinction, he was the last surfer to ever surf that legendary historic break. He sneaked down the cliff, after it was closed for construction of a breakwater that destroyed Dana, and all the local area reefs. He dodged the security guards, and rode one last massive wave on his Hobie Phil Edwards Model, and fled from the pursuit. The next day, “ Killer Dana” was gone forever.

The Short Board Revolution

In 1966, David met up with an Australian group, led by Bob McTavish, and pioneer designer, George Greenough. They were experimenting with these mysterious surf crafts, called “Space Machines”, and “Velo” (the name of Greenough’s flexible kneeboard). This was the start of the short board revolution. He immediately got an old “second” blank and fiberglass, and built one of his own. It was half the size of the standard 9-foot boards being ridden at the time, and had a “hull” design, with a large flexible fin (Greenough concept).

To David, as an artist, surfing is a form of artistic expression.

He surfed the Santa Barbara breaks for a year, or so, as a maverick among the surfing populace, who were into the usual nose-riding techniques on longboards. Then, the Short-board Revolution of the ‘60’s hit. By then, Allan was designing and shaping very experimental boards, ranging from 3’ 11”, to 4’ 6”. He surfed differently than the prevailing trends, and often alone, in seclusion. He continued to surf unusual surfboard designs at spots along the West Coast, as well as the Hawaiian island of Maui, where his parents had lived for a number of years.

Becoming a Survivor as Well as a Rescuer

Through surfing, David became a survivor, as well as a rescuer. In 1980, he was diagnosed with cancer, and had to undergo a surgery, in which all thirty five of the lymph nodes in his upper body were removed, along with a mass of flesh. He was given a 70% chance against survival. However, while he still had open wounds and catheter tubes handing from his body, he would sneak out of bed, and go down to a local reef to surf…paddling out with one arm. The doctor wondered and exclaimed that he was healing so fast. For better or worse, David kept silent. He knew that his will to live came from the waves.

This spirit of life was passed on to other lives: In December 1995, while observing giant waves off Pebble Beach, David spotted a woman who had fallen from the cliff into the surf. With his surfboard, he jumped into the water, fought his way between the rocky reefs and sea caves to rescue her. In spite of advanced hypothermia, he brought her safely ashore. For his action, David was awarded the Carnegie Medal for Heroism and the U.S. Coast Guard Silver Lifesaving Medal.

In the Navy, he took one of his boards on the ship with him during deployment to the Vietnam War. He was in the Battle of KohTang, the final and fiercest sea-battle of the war. He surfed unnamed reefs and beaches around Korea, Hong Kong, Philippine Islands, and Japan, when the rare opportunity to surf was available between military operations and battles.

At the time of the short board revolution, David was designing and shaping highly experimental boards.

David’s family had moved to Northern California, and he surfed the hidden spots around the remote and wild coast of Big Sur. Besides being a teacher and artist, he was (and still is) a commercial fisherman, in the old style, resembling the “Old Man of the Sea”. He would carry his aluminum skiff down cliffs to launch through the surfline at secret spots. One day, he noticed a hidden reef in a remote, inaccessible area. One day, about 25 years ago, he took his surf board on his boat, and after catching a large lingcod there, he took a “lunchbreak” to surf the boulder reef, which ended in a cave. He surfed there alone, unknown, for five years, until he introduced the wave to the student surf team he had started at the tiny, remote, rural Pacific Valley School, where he taught. He devised a way to rappel down the 200-foot cliff to the break, and continued to surf there regularly. People on the Big Sur Coast began to call him “The Unknown Legend of Captain Lingcod”, and the secret break became known as “Lingcod Ledge”.

Surfing on the Payette River

A big portion of David’s family lived in Idaho, and it was by the grace of God that his true love, Jana, whom he met (while surfing a rare rivermouth sandbar, which breaks only once every 10 years or so), and married, was a native Idahoan. Jana’s family owned their land in Cascade, since childhood, and in time, David and Jana made their home of the canyon and cabin in the hills near Cascade. David fished, and surfed behind his boat on Lake Cascade and the Payette River. Then, along came Kelly’s Whitewater Park, the vision of Mark and Kristina Pickard, Hans Borbonus, Mayor Dick Carter, and others — the place where this year’s Payette River Games will be held. David had been studying the rapids along the Payette River, for possible standing waves that might be surfable. When the whitewater park first opened, he took his surfboard to the most powerful upper wave, and discovered that it could be surfed! Since then, “Kelly’s Wave” has become his “home break”, when the river ran high enough through the Summer water release from the Cascade Dam.

David had been studying the rapids along the Payette River, for possible standing waves that might be surfable.

Dave also found that others had come to consider him to be an “ambassador” for that wave. However, his deepest bond to the wave, is the natural beauty that surrounds him, much like the secret spots along the Big Sur “Wild Coast”. Many a day has been spent, alone, from the vantage point of standing on a surfboard, sliding on the wave, with ospreys and bald eagles above, big trout holding station below, just beneath his board, snowy peaks all around, the wilderness environment, and the rural “Pastures of Heaven” with grazing livestock, which define what Long Valley is. To David, as an artist, surfing is a form of artistic expression, just like his well-known watercolors, airbrush paintings, oils, and hand-carved miniature surfboards, carved from jade gemstone, which he prospects by himself.

Photos and Artwork by David Allan

The post How Kelly’s Wave Became David Allan’s Home Break appeared first on Riverbreak.